Marji said...
Thanks Ann,
Can you comment specifically on the Cashmere blend (you have it in orange and fuschia at $18/yd) coating wool - is the cashmere content high enough on that coating to warrant an underlining?
Hi Marji,
It's a pretty tight weave, and it should hold up without an underlining. If you want to underline a cashmere blend or cashmere like that, I'd use a cotton batiste.
HTH!
Ann
Melissa Fehr Trade asks....
Kay Y, I've got a question about adding the walking ease that wasn't really answered by domestichaven's instructions, either. In the last photo you showed adding the wedge to the front facing's edge, but the CF is actually a few inches off the edge because of the coat's overlap. Is it okay to just add the wedge to the side, or do we need to cut up the CF and pivot to add the wedge in the middle? (Forgive me if that's a dim question, I don't know much about pattern alteration, being a very lucky standard size)
Marji said.....
I'm going to find RC's book today (I looked yesterday but it buried itself in a pile and is hiding) and re-read her directions, and I'll dig out Sandra Betzina's directions too.
Last time I read R. Carr's directions it appeared to me that she writes those directions for adding the walking ease along the CF. I'm not sure how she's treating a double breasted coat. or even if it's an issue in a double breasted coat. Melissa, I have to think that adding the wedge on the side seam would be pointless.
Nancy, I've done it both ways, and seen it done both ways. The vintage Vogue pattern I'm using has the turn of cloth allowance already drafted onto the collar - I took pics and will post them later today.
Truth: I'm thinking that if you remember to draft the additional onto your upper collar before cutting then that's the way to do it. If you don't think of it until you're already cut, and the pattern wasn't drafted to include the extra, then you trim off the undercollar when constructing. Sometimes I think the answers are just that pragmatic.
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