Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Rosemary: B4665 Muslin done

This was taken a couple of weeks ago and I think I have the fit fairly good now. I am wearing a different sweater underneath, so the muslin is a little looser. It looks like I should adjust my skirt as well.
Since the last group of pictures, I have taken a tuck in the upper back, sleeve and front, this resulted in the neckline fitting better. Then I added an inch to the bodice length at the waist.
I like the length of the sleeves, I will add extra to the length of the coat. I like the current length and not the suggested hem line. I lowered the bust point but had to give that several tries as there was not enough seam allowance to just do a reshaping of the area. I think I still have to work on the curve a bit more. I have to more the buttons as well.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Ann's Muslin - Burda 7855

I finished the muslin on Burda 7855, and I am very happy with the fit, however you would never think that from these pictures. I used a cotton for the muslin that is absolutely horrible as far as wrinkles, and the camera shows them "all". (The sleeves are the worst and believe me I ironed this fabric several times for the pictures but it really was no use!) After taking a gazillion pictures I am going with these or I'd never get any posted.

The only alteration I will do is on the sleeves. The fit is fine, there is no tightness but as you can see one sleeve does not look so good. The sleeve cap has too much fabric, see red circle/picture taken outside. I removed some of the excess on the right sleeve as I pinned the sleeve to the arm, and then sewed it. The sleeve looks much better after having done this. I believe Tany had a similar issue as well. So for the sleeve paper pattern I will use Tany's method , she posted a great tutorial explaining this alteration in detail! Thank you Tany! ( Here it is on Tany's blog for those not participating in the Coat Sew Along).

There is what appears to be a lots of wrinkles on the back, and the sleeves, but trust me when I say it's the fabric! I am pleased with how the jacket fits and how it feels when I'm wearing it.

I may shorten it somewhat but I'm still pondering this change :)

Sunday, August 24, 2008

KayY: MUCH less boring!

I have made progress with my coat - er - my muslin.

Here again is the Vintage Vogue Christian Dior pattern I'm using

After I graded the pattern, which if you recall is described as "high - fitted", I made up a muslin out of hideous curtain fabric - it's slightly shiny and stripey which shows off the bias cut. Despite the flaws of the fabric, the coat looks pretty good. The only problem is that it is so fitted (quite nicely I think) through the shoulders and arms that there would be no way to actually wear it over anything.

Round two saw me add to the width in these critical areas. I extended the shoulder point and side seam at the lower armscye out 1cm each. I also lowered the armscye by 1cm. This gives me a total of 4cm more width just below the arms, blended into the original side seams around waist level.

I also made the sleeves wider to match the new armscye.

The only fitting change I made was to curve the CB seam in more at the waist/hip level as it was quite baggy.

Finally, I decided the coat needs to be 4cm longer to cover most of the skirts/dresses I would wear it with. I kept the original hem circumference.

Here are the pictures of my first muslin (tight jacket fit)

And here is the shorter & bigger muslin, worn with a jacket underneath.

I had better get going now. I have to finish the rest of the pattern pieces and cut this out. I have decided to use a mostly windproof underlining and kasha lining. I have hair canvas on hand, and I will decide about whether to use the lambswool I bought once I have the shell constructed and can get a sense of the heft of the coat.