Saturday, August 16, 2008

Claire S. - V8346 - I've got Sleeves !!!

I've made it through another attempt at sleeves.

The McCalls sleeve was giving me trouble and I was still fighting with it (it was winning...) when I saw the Threads instructions for converting 1-pc sleeves.

I psyched myself up and spent 2 evenings tracing and redrafting the 1-pc Vogue sleeve into a 2-pc sleeve and here are the results...

Front & Back :

There are 2 right sides here, the one taken in the shade looked pretty good till I saw how the sun really showed up the wrinkles.

I've just seen Els' post on the diagonal wrinkle problem and I guess I'm going to have to move the notch forward a bit on the right sleeve. I don't think I have to do anything to the left sleeve, do I ?

The last time I asked about resetting a sleeve I was told to take the whole thing out and set it in from it the same now ? Would I be able to unpick the basting on the back of the armhole seam and just ease it all forward a bit ? I didn't gather the ease between the notches, I pretty much eased most of the armhole - just left the underarm with no easing, about 4-5" or so.

Looking at the whole body shot again from the side, I see the waistline is not actually level yet...CF is still higher than CB. I think I'll adjust this yet again, CB needs to come up at least another 1/2".

So, any thoughts, re: the sleeves or anything else you may see ?

LindaF - Muslin with sleeves

Burda 7855

Here are my final fitting photos (hopefully).

I apologize for the terrible shots. First off the front is not pinned correctly. I was in a rush yesterday, but wanted to get photos taken. I didn't even check it in the mirror and the front is off by a good inch. I think that explains the terrible looking back. I'll double check that later.

Also I am bloated, so there are drag lines where they shouldn't be. I purposely don't tackle fitting issues during a certain five days of the month for this very reason. I can go up a whole cup size. My doctor told me that this thing should go away any time now, given my age. But if only my body would listen, sheesh.

I have read Els's entry for the sleeve wrinkle problem. I am going to take one of these out and fix it per her instructions. But I am going to wait the five days first.

My fabric is at the cleaners getting a good steam press. I have a local source who will take the fabric for me. Many thank to Marji who suggested this to me. But for pieces this large they send it out some where, so it is taking two weeks to get it back. I should get it back in time to keep on schedule.

Take care everybody.

Els: Diagonal wrinkles in sleeves

I made an example diagram about diagonal wrinkles in sleeves caused by and what to do about it .

Hope this will help some of you who has those wrinkles.

Sleeve 1
Diagonal wrinkles coming from the back of the sleeve starting at the armscye and can appear from the elbow too can be caused by a very straight posture. To get rid of those wrinkles mark a new shoulder seam notch (see the red line) and match that new notch with the shoulder seam. The sleeve should be moved more forward into the armscye.

Sleeve 2
Diagonal wrinkles starting at the front part from the upper arm till the elbow line can be caused by forward shoulder posture or by a high round back.To get rid of those wrinkles mark a new shoulder notch (see the red line) and match the new notch with the shoulder seam. The sleeve should be moved more towards the back into the armscye.

Friday, August 15, 2008

KayY: Boring, Boring, Boring

I made a muslin of my coat, for which I'd chosen a BWOF pattern:

I used some medium-beefy corduroy for the muslin which does a decent job of being a coat muslin. However the lines I dutifully sewed in to mark CF and waist etc. are lost. I have drawn in a black line at the marked waist in this picture of the front.

The sizing for this coat starts at 38 (12) whereas I'd usually choose a 36 (10) in WOF sizing - I went ahead based on earlier reports that this coat had little ease, and the fact that the pattern ease on the 38 measured OK according to Marji's guidelines. I am wearing it overtop a jacket (which also has shoulderpads) and I think it is a size too big in the shoulders but more so in the back. I think the bust and hips are OK but the waist/shoulders/upper back are just sloppy.

Things to note about the picture:

- I didn't pin to secure the leading edge of the left front, and it is sagging a bit, which I think is causing those wrinkles in the upper left front (leading to the pin)
- the lower front edge was curling under a bit
- the picture is a little off the vertical (I'm not that crooked)
- the shoulders are too wide, as is the back from the shoulders down to the hip
- the sleeves are too long (they are folded up at the hem line in this picture, and need an inch or so less)

More pictures are here.

Overall, this pattern is just not grabbing me, even a little bit. Less so when I think about my chosen stash fabric.

Sooo my friend Gail (who also thought the muslin was kind of meh) brought over a couple of Vintage Vogue coat patterns from her extensive collection for my consideration. Interestingly, both have inset pieces of the same kind as the BWOF pattern.

Here they are:

I am kind of leaning to the Christian Dior, except will have to pay careful attention to the fit as it's noted to be "high-fitted", which I assume means a close fit, and is a size (ahem) 8.

Edited later the same day ...

I am so going to make the Dior pattern! I opened it up and it's cut on the bias, which is just fascinating to me somehow. My wool has a noticeable straight-grain weave, so the bias should look really good (the inset front band is cut on the straight grain, as are the sleeves).

I started a crash course in grading (Threads issue 101) and will cut a muslin tomorrow. NOW I can get excited about making a coat!

Cennetta: Vogue 8438 Muslin

Boy I'm so behind on the Great Coat Sew Along. Two weeks ago, I completed the first go round of the Muslin fitting and have a few adjustments to make. I didn't attempt to make any of my normal changes, straight from the pattern. Here are the photos and noted changes. If you can identify additional changes needed, please don't hesitate to comment.

I think I need to do a FBA. There a bit of gapping at the front closure across the bustline

Too much room from the shoulder blades through the waist area. I forgot to insert the shoulder pads. They will elminate some of the excess.

Remove some of the fullness along the lower half of the front princess seam. Sway back adjustment needed. Coat stand away from the small of my back.

Last week I went to Vogue fabrics hunting for the perfect lining but came away empty handed. I'm also thinking about adding a unlining to help protect me from the Chicago winds.

This weekend I'll start making the adjustments mentioned above.

Happy Sewing!

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Mary OK's Marfy F1022 knockoff muslin changes

At Marji's suggestion, I took out about 24" of the width of of the muslin to make the shape of my coat more like the design I am copying. The pleats are now 1 - 1.5 " deep, instead of 3" deep. Here is the result:

I optimistically named these photos "last muslin," but I'm not so sure about the wrinkles on the sleeves. Will they fill out with sleeve heads, lining, etc? I do like the design change, though.

Mary Pat, I am behind too. I have been working on a silk dress for a party this weekend. I can think about the coat again after the middle of next week.

Monday, August 11, 2008

MaryPat: A bit behind

I am behind on my coat. I have fabric. lining, interfacing etc. I have changed my pattern a few times and I do not have the mockup done. I might use a pattern I have used in the past as a way to catch up.
However, I do have a scarf knit that matches my coat, or at least the fabric.
We were on holiday at my SIL's cottage in Northern Ontario last week and on the long drive North through Michigan we stopped in Mackinac City. I went to a lovely little yarn shop there and stocked up on novelty yarns to knit on the trip. All were marked down by about 75%.
So, my priorities might be a bit mixed up, but now I need to make the darn coat so I can wear the bargain scarf.