Pattern ideas

all material contained here is by MVZ and the Great Coat Sewalong and may not be reproduced without permission.
Pattern images belong to the pattern companies and are linked.

If you already have a pattern, great. If you don't, and this is your first coat, here are some of my thoughts: (and I'm looking mainly at classic coat designs)

**Please leave a message in the comments with your pattern number or BWOF number
if you've chosen already**

• Look for a pattern drafted with a 2 piece sleeve.
• Shoulder princess seams are easier to adjust for fit than armhole princess seams, and provide flattering vertical lines. If you're easy to fit or are adept at fitting, either seam type is good.
  
• Full notched collars with a roll line are not difficult, we'll be going through the whole process here to make one, but they will require a bit more of your time than stand up or applied collars.
• details like pockets are easily changed.
• the decision to underline will be made based upon the fabric and pattern choice you make
• the decision to interline will be made based upon how warm you need your coat to be
  

Vogue 7978 Vogue 7979

patterns It's unfortunate that Vogue has just added V7979 and V7978 to their discontinued list - both are very well drafted with shoulder princess seams and are still available by ordering on their website. Both of these coats also have collar variations and inseam pockets.

McCalls 5247 is a pattern that I know a few folks here either have or are considering.
It has the 2 pc sleeve and vertical princess seams. Again, I assume everyone here is willing to make a muslin, so fitting issues will be worked out then. I understand, although do not know for certain, that there is more wearing ease built into this pattern than the comparable Vogue patterns. (I'll discuss appropriate wearing ease measurements when we get to muslins in June).
I'm going to go buy this pattern today at the $1.99 sale just to have it so I know what some of you are working with.

Simplicity 4403 is another pattern that would be a good choice, and another that is discontinued! (and still available through their website acc'd to the info on the website)
Burda 7855 is still in print and should be in the drawers at the store.



Vogue 8346 Vogue 8307

If you choose a full skirted design, such as Vogue 8346 and Vogue 8307, you'll want to consider underlining the whole coat to support the wool in the fullness of the skirt.

I'm certain that there are great patterns available in some back issues of BWOF, and if you own those, great. There are also many many great OOP and vintage coat patterns.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

A Pattern I'm not crazy about, and why: Butterick 4665 doesn't have a 2 piece sleeve

Just for fun, follow this link for a look at my own personal coat pattern collection

I received an email from someone saying she was going to buy or trace a size larger than she typically wears to account for the wearing ease.
If you were thinking along these same lines, Don't.
A coat pattern is drafted taking into account the fact that it's meant to be worn over other clothing and has wearing ease built in. The first week in June, when we get to the step about muslins I'll post the guidelines for the amount of wearing ease (know that it's ballpark 6" - 10") and go through measuring the tissue prior to cutting. But when buying your pattern, buy your correct size.

Re a one piece and two piece sleeve:
When I cover fitting the muslin and pattern drafts I'll talk about the one and two piece sleeve, and cover how you can change your sleeve from one piece to two piece if you want to.

Next up - a discussion of fabrics.