Monday, September 22, 2008

Els: Sleeve Heads Tutorial

As promised I would do a small tutorial how to use the sleeve heads.

The sleeve heads are sewn at the armhole after the sleeve is set in. You can see that the left and right side of the sleeve heads are different in length and shape.

If you fold the sleeve head at the shoulder notch (small slit) you will notice that one part is longer and has a more angled shape at the end, the longer length needs to be placed at the back side of the armhole, the shorter part needs to be placed towards the front side of your jacket or coat.

I am making a jacket from a silk tweed which I ordered from Melody (fashionistafabrics) I used a very thin stretch fusible interfacing for the whole jacket and sleeves.

I use 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowance at the armhole and sleeve, and have used a fusible bias cut tape to stabilize the armhole.

Pin the sleeve head shoulder notch matching the shoulder seam, with the edges matching from sleeve, armhole and sleeve heads.

You can sew the sleeve heads into the armhole while you are removing the pins or you could baste the sleeve heads in first which I did here for an example. I used orange basting thread and basted over the stitching line from the set in sleeves.

Sewing the sleeve heads in with the sewing machine and sew a hairline away (towards he seam allowance) from the previous stitching (sleeve inset). The sleeve head is placed towards the machine bed so I can see the previous stitching from the set in sleeve. I used a 3 mm stitch length which is just a bit larger than my previous stitching to set in the sleeves

view from the sleeve head the basting thread is still visible.

Remove the basting thread, the seam allowances are heading towards the sleeve.

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Fabricluver: Supply package question

Marji - or anyone

In the supply package I purchased from Marji there are two 1/4" pieces. The black is the stay tape (at least it looks like stay tape) but the white 1/4" looks as if it has shiny fusible side? What is this? Where do I use it?

Reply from Marji, who's breaking into your post to reply ;)

I included both fusible AND sew-in stay tape - use one and save the other for another project, another time.
I didn't want to have to sort out who was using fusibles to do their shaping, and who would be going the handstitching route, so I included both in the package.
Actually, I used the fusible straight tape to stabilize my in-seam pocket line.
If you have fusible stay tape and aren't using it for anything else, the pocket is a good place to put it, OR you may use a strip of fusible interfacing to stabilize that line - the fold line for the inseam pocket.

I have the posts almost ready to put up on bound buttonholes and pockets - give me til the end of the week. I've got a long work schedule this week.