Saturday, July 12, 2008

Tany’s muslin

So without further ado, here is my muslin. I’m sorry for being late, but adding to the excess of work at the office I also had a neck injury this week.

Ok, so what did I change? First the sleeve; you’ll notice that my left sleeve looks better than the right one; the armhole looked right but I thought that there was too much sleeve cap ease and also excess fabric on the front side of the cap so I made a 0.5cm deep fold perpendicular to the grain line (it takes out 2cm ease of the sleeve cap) and tapered the posterior side of the cap removing the extra fabric there.

The right sleeve cap (it doesn’t seem too wrong in this picture but it felt wrong with the coat on):

The left sleeve cap (after my alterations):

Another thing that I am considering is changing the pocket placement… But I’m not sure yet and I’ll give it some thought first:

As you see in the picture, the pocket opening is on the side seam… I think the pockets would “feel” better if placed on a seam further to the front… But this may alter the balance, because of the horizontal seam you see there:

I also pinched a little excess fabric on the CB, so I think I will add a CB seam too:

One of the things to be determined in the muslin stage is the roll line of the collar; this will be necessary to know when padstitching the undercollar:

Overall, I’m happy with the fit but I’m no fitting expert since I only sew to myself and never had to do major fitting alterations so I’m happy to get your input on this!

Friday, July 11, 2008

Edit - Claire S. - V8346, sleeves ?

Edit - July 11 - I'm still stuck.

The actual problem - Neither sleeve feels tight around my arm, only pulling at the underarm.

Gry - suggested to change the sleeve balance and rotate the sleeves to the back

EJVC (ClassicalReader) - understood that I added the width on the left sleeve to the under part of the sleeve and suggested that I split the sleeve both horizontally and vertically on the upper sleeve to get added width.

1) I didn't specify clearly - I did add the 1-1/2" width to the upper sleeve...just that the amount was 1-1/2" at the level of the underarm (sorry, don't remember what the name of that part of the sleeve is called), more at the top of the sleeve cap and tapering to nothing at the cuff. you can see a loooong 'V' of stitching on the pic showing my full left side.

2) EJVC's solution will add depth to the armhole - I think it is already too low since, when I lift my arms, the pull is right at the armpit. It seems as though you have one thing or the other, either the armhole is high enough to move your arm or it's big enough to wear a heavy sweater, but not both. Is there a happy medium?

3) I think rotating the sleeves back will take away the vertical wrinkles but will that loosen up the pull when I lift my arms ?

4) To rotate the sleeves, do I take them completely out and reset them ? or leave the bottom in place and shift the upper part of the sleeve cap to the rear.

Thanks for the comments so far...this part seems so much more complicated than the body was.

original post - Jul 4
Let's start with the positive, shall we ? After all the suggestions on my first muslin, and Marji's pics to show exactly how to fix some of 'em - THANKS Marji & everyone - I managed to,

1) raise the back neck 1-1/4";
2) let out the side seams and the front & back princess seams 1/4", to get an added waist measurement of 3";
3) lower bust point 1-1/4"
4) raise the front waist 1" at CF , raise the waistline at the sides 1-1/2", and the back waist 1-1/2" - I have no idea if this is the proper way to make the waist level or not.

I didn't change the angle of the shoulder seams because I thought there is room for the shoulder pads.
Also did not move the shoulder seams forward, I think they're in the right place now.

Please let me know if the shoulder seams do need adjusting after all.

This felt pretty good, til I attempted the sleeves ! - maybe I should make a vest ?

Now- I am about to prove exactly how much of a newbie I am at this - feel free to let me know just how badly I messed up these sleeves, 'cos for sure they're not right.

V8346 has a one piece sleeve - the only 2-pc sleeve pattern I have is a McCalls (M5247), yup a different brand so I was prepared for it not to work.

I traced out the McCalls sleeve, size 16, measured the seamline against the seamline of the V8346 sleeve - both the same measurement - different shapes though.

I measured the actual armhole of the muslin, it is the same as the Vogue sleeve measurement - unless I made a drastic mistake somewhere, there is NO ease in this sleeve cap. Since my McCalls measurement was the same, there is no ease in this one either.

The McCalls sleeve without any changes, is my right sleeve. It is pretty tight, I can't lift my arm up very much.

I read everything I could find about fitting sleeves - sleeve cap ease, making bicep larger, changing armsyce depth - but since I didn't know exactly what the problem was, I winged it.

I split the left sleeve down from the top of the sleeve to the hem and spread it to add 1-1/2" right where the underarm is...which, by the way, seems really low except you do need room for sweaters, can't be too high up, no ? And I'm going to need room for all the layers of the real material once I get to that point. It's still too tight to raise my arm, but now the sleeve looks bulky.

So, here are the pictures

Before Sleeves - first one shows the final tweak of the waistline and was taken after the other 3.

After Sleeves - I rec'd Marji's package in the mail today, so the shoulder pads are sitting in place.

Right sleeve - McCalls 5247 no adjustments.
Left sleeve - McCalls 5247, split vertically and added 1-1/2" at underarm level

This is as much as I can raise my arms - how's that for a pose ?

I see wrinkles/pulls that I think mean things are too tight (at the back & the bust), but the only things that actually feel tight are the sleeves.

Sorry, I just saw how long this post is but I don't know what to do next and am really stuck.

Liana: Cashmere Questions

I wasn't sure if I should start a new post on this but I have several questions about what I should do with my fabric. As you know, it's 100% cashmere. I've read all the pertinent info you have posted on fabric, luxury fabrics, underlining, fabric prep, etc., and I still have questions.

1. I was planning to have it pre-shrunk at the cleaner's. I was thinking of just having them steam press it rather than clean it, although they are a CO2 cleaner which might be gentler anyway. But, all the texts mention rather strongly that steam can damage cashmere. What do you suggest? I'm not one who routinely sends clothing to the dry cleaners. I brush, air and shake them, and only if there's actual dirt would I send this to the cleaners. So I'm a little worried about taking my gorgeous fabric to them now to see if it will come back unharmed. Am I worried about nothing here?

2. It's extremely soft and drapey, and definitely needs underlining. I have tried lots of fabrics with it using your over-the-arm test and also holding both fabrics together and holding them up to myself in front of a mirror, and silk broadcloth and silk organza (which I happened to have on hand) seem to be way too lightweight. The cashmere is soft enough that if I drape it over my hand, I can see my knuckles, etc. right through it. This continues to be the case with organza and broadcloth, although 2 layers of broadcloth will soften the knuckle-effect a bit. I don't have enough silk broadcloth to do a double layer, and I think a double layer of anything is just asking for trouble anyway. I tried Pam's non-fusible interfacing under it, and I think that's what I am leaning toward. It gives it a tiny bit of body, yet it still falls in beautiful folds. Do you think I will be okay with this plan, or do you have any other ideas? This fabric is so soft by itself and I don't want this coat to look like a limp rag, or to show outlines of the shoulderpads, etc. I don't think I want flannel, as I don't believe I need the extra warmth. I'm planning on lining with silk charmeuse.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Elizabeth: I have created...a monster!!

Just wanted to give a short post about my progress and why there has been no muslin from me as yet. Well, I have been transforming and reworking and altering and puzzling over my pattern so as to make something like a copy of the Pringle coat I posted some time ago - double breasted, raglan sleeves, with a waist seam, princess seams on the front, a back box pleat on the skirt, not to mention concealed buttons, self trim, and huge statement pockets.

I have completed many of the alterations to the pattern, based on BWOF 10/07. First, I traced the pattern. It's an ankle-length coat and I wanted thigh-length, so I shortened at the hem by 38 cm. Then I marked the waistlines and cut apart the bodice and skirt of the coat. Then I got out the size 10 vintage Valentino pattern Marji spotted for me earlier, matched up the existing two piece sleeve for the BWOF pattern, compared it, and traced the Valentino raglan sleeve, extending the sides because of my larger arms (I wear a pattern size 16). I didn't lengthen the arms because I normally have to shorten them so size 10 length may be good for me. I then traced off the matching raglan shoulder seams on the back and front bodices with the valentino as a reference. Then I had to alter the traced raglan sleeve to account for the different collar on the BWOF pattern, which was difficult as the Valentino is single-breasted and the collar comes to the centre, whereas the BWOF is double-breasted and there is a straight panel across the front. Ack. Mind bending to transfer to the raglan sleeve, but I *think* I've done it. Then I altered the back skirt to add the pleat.

Areas I still haven't faced: should I cut the front facing all in one piece rather than dividing it at the waist? How will the lining pattern be affected - should I divide it at the waist as well (I think so, but maybe it would be better not to...)? Should I cut the back with it's CB pleat on a fold or in two? The raglan sleeves from the Valentino are one-piece and cut on the bias - will they work? Will I be able to sew together and fit this Creation? And of course the pocket pieces and trim remain to be drafted. And I have lots of concerns sewing with heavy melton.

I would *not* take on this project without you all, so thanks for the support. Next stop, muslin!


Monday, July 7, 2008

Alexandra: New coat mock-up

Posted by Alexandra (Studio Alexandra)

After the fiasco with the Vogue pattern morph, I wasn't sure I wanted to sew another coat anytime soon. Alas, as a member of the Great Coat Sew-Along, I figured giving up was not an option. Neither was reworking those two patterns.
Burda WOF to the rescue! (I love that magazine; I'd cut my sewing teeth on it and I often wonder why I even try using other patterns when BWOF works so well.) This is BWOF 12/06 - #120.

Anyway, here is my first mock-up. Probably the last, too, because the adjustments needed are minimal. Here it is belted, which is how I prefer to wear my coats. (Red belt borrowed from the robe Babbette the dressform usually wears.)

And here it is without the belt. I'll need to raise the bust point. There may also be an FBA in the works, judging from the diagonal lines but I'll wait to evaluate that until after I adjust for erect back. I think the extra length may be contributing to the look. I'm not sure if I should shorten the sleeves a little bit or leave them as they are.

So far, I really like it. The hem hits me right below the knee, not that you can see it with the dark jeans in the pictures. I'm debating leaving it as is versus shortening to above the knee. I think I will wear this coat with skirts and knee-high boots, so shouldn't I have a bit of leg showing?

PS: Excuse the slightly dorky pictures - my paparazzo was already winding down and getting ready for bed when I pleaded with him to take some pictures. Great guy that he is, he graciously agreed. Tired guy that he was, he thought nothing of the door hardware visible in the view finder.