Same muslin with refinements at the suggestion of Marji!. And it looks better! Thank you Marji!
I let out the front vertical seams by 1/4" and took a petite tuck adjustment of 1/4" for both front and back it it definately moved the back neckline closer. I also think my shoulder seam is much closer to the ideal back-of-ear positioning.
I think I still need a forward shoulder adjustment, maybe just a 1/4"? And definately a flat bottom adjustment to take out the swing. I think I pinched out a good 2 inches without affecting the ease. Would it be easier to do that by cutting the center back as two pieces instead of on the fold as it is now?
I did put in the buttonhole placement lines and it made pinning the front easier. Weird how little things like that make a big difference.
I'm making Burda 8292 view D. I'm 5' 3" and Burdas run very long for me so I believe D hits me right where I want it for a walking length coat. I don't wear heavy sweaters under this particular type of coat, so the top I have under is what I would normally wear.
I've put the shoulder pads in. From the side view I can see that I will need to make a swayback/flat bottom adjustment. I'm quite thick in the tummy area and will be adding length there. I think that all that pulling/wrinkling in front is the muslin catching my clothes underneath. I did do a really rough first muslin out of scrap wool and I didn't have the wrinkling. I would like some more waist definition if possible.
To Nancy from Marji,
Your muslin needs quite a bit of work before you can start to cut into the wool - don't be discouraged, this is a great learning opportunity and we'll get you through it, and you'll end up with a great fitting garment and a lot of knowledge about how to fit your body.
I am, as you are probably aware, out of town with limited computer access. I just posted a comment, but then I went in and looked more at your pictures. You have different things going on in different pics.
I believe that one of the reasons in the front and full back pics it looks as if there is too much fabric toward the neckline is that the coat is riding up in order to get to where there is enough room - I also believe that you have too much length in your bodice, and that you'll need a petite adjustment - taken as a full tuck, same as I directed for Rosemary. I'll link to the flickr pics in a minute.
At this point, I'm going to suggest steps.
1, let out all of your vertical seams, including side seams. It's too tight and is pulling everywhere. Don't worry about the shaping, we can add that back in later, but right now it's got to get to the point where it can hang well without riding up.
2. Mark your buttonhole placement on your fronts so that when you pin it together you can pin the buttonholes together. I'm not at all certain if you have pinned it together on your CF or your fold lines in your photos
3. take a petite alteration across the front and back (you will need to do this to the sleeve cap also). See here on how I recommended for Rosemary and she did it and got back to me that it was exactly what she needed to do.
4. Try it on again, and if it isn't riding up everywhere, take a new set of pictures, and then we can take a look at it and see if you do indeed need a fwd neck and fwd shoulder alteration.
To Nancy from Marji,
Your muslin needs quite a bit of work before you can start to cut into the wool - don't be discouraged, this is a great learning opportunity and we'll get you through it, and you'll end up with a great fitting garment and a lot of knowledge about how to fit your body.
I am, as you are probably aware, out of town with limited computer access. I just posted a comment, but then I went in and looked more at your pictures. You have different things going on in different pics.
I believe that one of the reasons in the front and full back pics it looks as if there is too much fabric toward the neckline is that the coat is riding up in order to get to where there is enough room - I also believe that you have too much length in your bodice, and that you'll need a petite adjustment - taken as a full tuck, same as I directed for Rosemary. I'll link to the flickr pics in a minute.
At this point, I'm going to suggest steps.
1, let out all of your vertical seams, including side seams. It's too tight and is pulling everywhere. Don't worry about the shaping, we can add that back in later, but right now it's got to get to the point where it can hang well without riding up.
2. Mark your buttonhole placement on your fronts so that when you pin it together you can pin the buttonholes together. I'm not at all certain if you have pinned it together on your CF or your fold lines in your photos
3. take a petite alteration across the front and back (you will need to do this to the sleeve cap also). See here on how I recommended for Rosemary and she did it and got back to me that it was exactly what she needed to do.
4. Try it on again, and if it isn't riding up everywhere, take a new set of pictures, and then we can take a look at it and see if you do indeed need a fwd neck and fwd shoulder alteration.
3 comments:
Nancy, from this perspective looking at pictures, it's more than just hanging up, it appears to be too close fitting.
I'd suggest that you go read through and look at every single entry regarding ClaireS coat - because you've got a lot of the same things going on. The back neck on the coat is way below your back neck. Your shoulder seams are too far back, and the coat is too tight in one area of the body but not well defined in another.
But before you do the forward neck alteration adding that wedge to the back to bring the neck up, I think you just need to let it out a bit through the hips and tummy area, so that it hangs instead of getting hung up on the body. Then, after your neck and shoulders fit well, it may be apparent that you need a bit of a fisheye at the back waist (maybe! - the neck alteration may change the way the whole coat hangs in which case you might not need it).
Anyway, after you get the neck and shoulders fitting correctly, then you can fit the body of the coat. It doesn't hurt to have it a bit too loose going into the cutting stage through the hips and belly, since the vertical seams are the easiest to take in, and you will be fitting in the wool once you've started assembly.
Thanks Marji!
Nancy,
I have nothing to add as far as fit. But I what a difference between the two fittings. It is a definite improvement. This is a really good example of how a good fit is important. Thanks for sharing. I know I'm learning quite a bit from this fitting stage.
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