Monday, June 23, 2008

NancyK: Pattern adjustment for an erect back

Marji asked me to write a post on how to make an erect upper back adjustment.
An erect back has too much length in the cb seam line causing the neck to ride up above the neckline. I draw a line perpendicular to the grain line in the upper back. If you are doing this on a shoulder princess as this pattern is, you need to overlap the seam lines and make the adjustment across both ending at the seam line in the armscye . Cut into the back from the cb across to the arm seam line. If you are making this on an armhole princess, make the adjustment above the princess seam. Move up the bottom piece to the point you need to reduce the cb. The cb needs to be straightened, lining up the seam line above and below the center back. I take out about 7/8 " but, obviously, everyone is different. The erect back also means that there is often too much horizontal room too. The second part of this adjustment is the L shaped line that I drew on the pattern. This would be cut leaving it attached at the shoulder and moved in the amount needed which is determined by pinning out the folds that form near the armhole.

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