Edited with a question - thanks everyone for the comments.
Marji - I don't 'usually' do anything, swayback, or high round back...I'm too new at this. Anything suggested to me will require research or questions to all of you to figure out exactly HOW to accomplish adjustments. I have a couple of sewing books and I think they will be well used during this process.
That being said, thinking I would have to fix the bust before the waist, I did some reasearch on Cidell's suggested low bust adjustment and successfully did one side !!! I was AMAZED - it was my very first adjustment of any kind, I was giddy LOL
Sometime during that process I remeasured the muslin's back length and my own to find out they are the same and my waist should be right on - It's not, of course, so I was on my way back to ask what to do about it and lo and behold the answer is already posted - with pictures no less, thanks alot - I can do this.
Now, the question. One bust is adjusted, one is still way off. Do I do the other bust then the high round neck - or the neck first. I think fixing the neck will move the shoulders forward and the bust down, at least some, won't it ???
Here are my 'I thinks'
1) I think the length of the shoulders and the width of the upper back are ok
2) I think the bust points are too high (or I'm too low LOL)
3a) I think the stitched waistline is too low - if it is meant to be at the natural indent of my waist (that's about 1-inch higher)
3b) but the waist is too tight when I match up the CF - so would fixing the height of the waistline also fix this ?
Now, I don't know how to fix any of these, so here are my pics and request for HELP ! :-)
Front/Back
5 comments:
You need to move the waistline to the correct position before you let it out.
Hi Claire,
I have the BP problem on tops too. For princess seams I use a Claire Schaeffer adjustment which calls for slicing off the curve of the bust from my pattern and moving it down to where my actual bust point is. I'm pretty sure it's labeled as a low bust adjustment.
Claire, have you had a chance to lift the waistline yet?
It appears as if you need to raise it more in back than in front - do you usually need to make a sway back adjustment (fisheye dart across the back)? You also do need to add a bit of ease in the waist - it's far too tight for a coat. You can accomplish that by straightening out the stitching line a bit on the side seam through the waist area.
Also, before you try it on again, put shoulder pads in, And quickly baste both sleeves in.
After you get the waist taken care of, and open out the side seam a bit through the waist area, you need to address the back neck. Do you usually make a high round back adjustment to your patterns? It's accomplished by slicing your pattern horizontally from CB to armscye a couple of inches below the existing neckline, lifting the neck the amount you need (I'm looking here and thinking you might need as much as 1.25" although that's just a guess) and then trueing up your CB seamline.
Because you're already in the muslin, I'd draw the lines on the muslin, slice it open, insert a wedge of fabric and stitch it in.
The Rule do one alteration at a time, and usually you want to start at the top.
And as soon as I write something like that, the exceptions will present themselves. If something is so tight that you can't tell how it's hanging, then you need to let out the tight seams, then start at the top, doing One alteration at a time. As you've seen with previous muslins, sometimes once the major items are corrected, the smaller items present themselves.
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