Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Marji: Alteration for forward shoulder at the muslin stage

Often, I think it's nearly impossible to tell, from photos such as these, whether or not someone needs a forward shoulder adjustment. Especially if it's already in the correct place at the neck, (which many have been.)

Claire has taken such a set of pictures though that provide us with some great opportunities to demonstrate where it is obvious and necessary to move a shoulder seam. So again, I'm co-opting Claire's pictures to show how to move the shoulder seam forward.

The black line I drew on Claire's neck illustrates how to determine where the shoulder seam should originate. It is in line with the back of the ear.

I would do this alteration after lifting the back neck for the forward neck alteration. (See previous post)

  1. Mark correct placement of shoulder seam on both front and back pieces. Here, it looks as if the back may be on or just over the cutting line of the current back.
  2. Rip out current shoulder seam.
  3. Attach another piece of muslin as extension to back at the shoulder.
  4. Fold front under at new shoulder seam line and pin along new shoulder seam line at back (in this case, almost along the old cutting line).
  5. Try on for fit. Adjust a bit if necessary. Stitch in place, still basting.
With a move this drastic, undoubtedly the sleeve cap is going to need adjusting too.
If you have a fitting book that demonstrates the change, great, look it up. If you don't, I'll try to get back to draw it up later.

I almost forgot: I think you may need to add room for a shoulder pad too, which means you will change the angle of the shoulder seam. This is what it would look like on the pattern draft. Back and front, equal, after moving it forward.

Right now I've got to finish laundry, pack, wrap shower gifts, and organize my household to manage without me for the next week. And I leave at 6 a.m..


Claire S. said...

Thanks Marji, I raised the back already and the shoulders definitely moved forward, possibly a bit too much. I'll get DH to take a few more pictures and check it out before I do any more changes.

cidell said...

Well thank you for this because I never knew where the shoulder line was supposed to fall!

Tany said...

Excellent info, Marji!