Saturday, May 31, 2008

Supply lists



Supplies

  • Needles - for tailoring you want short fine needles, labeled on the package as Betweens
  • silk thread OR rayon embroidery thread for marking and basting -do NOT sweat this one. if you don't have easy access to silk thread, just go buy a spool of Sulky machine embroidery thread - or Madeira - Rayon embroidery, not poly embroidery.
  • all-purpose thread to match your fashion fabric, and separate thread if you need it for your lining, if your lining is contrast.
  • topstitching thread. I'll discuss this at length in a separate post.
  • Beeswax - easiest to use from a dispenser like this - available Everywhere!
  • pencil
  • tailors chalk
  • tailors ham for pressing and
  • a press cloth - (I use a square of silk organza)

nice, but not necessary:
  • Cotton basting thread this stuff is not for sewing with, but is great for basting, and rips apart when you want to remove it.
  • Tracing wheel and tracing paper - I use the old fashioned waxed stuff in large sheets from Greenberg and Hammer - comes in 4 colors
  • all the other fun pressing tools like point pressers and sleeve boards and sleeve rolls - they all make pressing easier, but you can make-do without all of them. They represent a huge investment.
Notions:
  • Wiggan for hemming
  • stay tape - fusible or sew in - straight and bias
  • sleeve heads *see below
  • buttons - you'll need these early on if you're planning on bound buttonholes. If you want to make buttonholes by hand then you can wait awhile on finding these.
  • shoulder pads - you can make these, but I will not be going over making shoulder pads, so if you do, you're on your own. You will want uncovered pads, and they come in different shapes for raglan and set-in sleeves, and in different sizes based upon what type of garment they're for and how much pad you want. I have a wholesale source locally (well, sort of local, they're way downtown) that I might be able to use. The avail sources I'm finding on the net are woefully inadequate.
Note, for those few of you making men's coats - someone NEEDS to get a mens tailoring reference. And, check out the Kit available at B.Black&Sons for menswear tailoring. You'll find straight sleeve heads, linen collar interfacing, undercollar felt, and shoulder pads in it.
SewTrue has the chest pads and blade pads that are found in menswear that are not found in women's tailored coats. For menswear I've seen them all over the place - but you can buy "Coat Fronts" by the size, precut and padded. These are at SewTrue, but I believe they also have them at B.Black, Greenberg and Hammer, Atlanta Thread, and maybe at the Sewing Place.

I have a question for everyone in the continental US - Canada:
If I were to put together a package containing a pair of sleeve heads, and an adequate amount of staytape and wiggan, would you be interested in buying it and having me send it to you? Would you be interested in having me include shoulder pads? I would need to cover my costs. I'm thinking that with shipping it wouldn't be more than $10.

The next question is:
If I were to put together a sample set containing 4"x6" samples of a variety of interfacings, including hair canvas, hymo, fusible acro, a fusible weft insertion interfacing, possibly a form-flex - would you be interested in that? That would allow you to sample without having to order yardage. Again, I'd have to cover my costs and shipping- but I could get a lot of samples out of a half a yard of each, so the cost to each would be minimal.

Els (of the Sewing Divas) has contacted me and offered to sell coat sleeve heads (jacket sleeve heads are smaller) to participants here - I'm just going to quote from her email:

I have sleeve heads for coats ( 35 pair in white and 35 pair in black ) which I can sell, although I am not a retailer. Just happen to have a large stash.

These sleeve heads have a longer length and are used for coats.

The sleeve heads for a jacket are shorter in length and also a bit steeper in shape.

The price is € 0,95 ( 95 euro cents) US $1.55 per pair but I can sell them for a special price US $1.20 per pair for this occasion, as part of my contribution.

The sleeve head that I was planning on using from Atlanta Thread are straight and have a foldline delineated into the header. I'm pleased to be able to try these.
What Els will do is send me a batch (saving out some for any of you already in European locations) and I'll repackage and ship from here along with the rest of the notions.
If you want a set of these, you MUST leave a comment here in the comments. I'm not going to be responsible for trying to sort comments and emails and determine who got dibs first. There are 70 sets - coat, NOT jacket size, so I'm going to limit the quantity to one per person, unless we have extras. If you're making more than one coat, you can request materials for as many coats as you need, and I'll add the other type sleeve head for the additional coats.
(if you live in Europe, Els has indicated that she will send a set to you - sign up for one here and we'll take care of the logistics of paying Els directly and getting addresses, later)

in your comment please specify notion kit with shoulder pad OR notion kit without shoulder pad.

53 comments:

MaryJ said...

Hi Marji

I would love samples of anything/everything. I'm a stranger to wiggan? Happy to pay/cover your costs. I am in Australia. I think there may be other Aussies sewing along too. (Vicki? Caity?)

fabricluver (Susan) said...

Yes to both and I'm more than happy to pay. I would also like a recommendation of which hair canvas pretty please(I'm using mohair so I know it needs to be sew in) . I've found hair canvas online anywhere from $7-8 up to $30 and since I've never used it I have no idea which to buy. Thanks Marji,

Marji said...

I'm reserving one pair black for myself.

Claire said...

Add me to the list of someone who will purchase any samples, supplies, etc. These are teaching tools and I need all the assistance I can get! ;o)

With my dark red coat I'll reserve a set of black sleeve heads.

And, once again...thank you!!!!! I think I'm going to be saying that a lot over the next few months.

patti said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
MarilynB said...

I would definitely like to have the sleeveheads. I prefer the white.

Also, a package which included the sleeveheads, wiggan and staytape and shoulderpads sounds great. If you do this, put me on your list.

Michelle said...

I would like to get a pair of the black sleeve heads if possible. Thanks for putting all this together!!

Claire S. said...

Marji - I would like a set of black sleeve heads. And yes, if you make any sample packages, I would be interested in those as well. Thanks :-)

LauraM said...

I would like a set of black sleeve heads. I will also purchase from you any and all sample packages you put together. Thank you so much for doing this.

Lisette M said...

I would like a set of white sleeve heads and the package that includes shoulder pads.

Jamie said...

I'm interested in both the kit and sample pack as well as a set of the black coat sleeve heads!

EverythingErin said...

Yes, I'd be interested in the kit, sample pack and black sleeve heads. Thanks!

fabricluver (Susan) said...

Please add a pair of the black to my package. Thanks!

KayY said...

I suspect Els' sleeve heads may be sold out in short order. Here is a tip for those of you who may miss out, or just to try. You can make your own curved sleeve heads from your coat pattern. If I can tell from the picture, the ones Els is selling are made from needlepunched fleece. I have used warm and natural (cotton) quilt batting which is about the same weight. Or you can use other fleecy products which are reasonably firm and aren't too stretchy, such as good quality felt, micro-fleece, polarfleece, other poly fleeces for quilting, etc. Use lighter weight fleece for lighter fabrics.

Using the sleeve cap pattern for the appropriate curve (always the right size), cut a strip approximately notch to notch or shorter, about 2" (5cm) wide. In the picture you can see that one end (front I believe) is tapered whereas the other is square. Make a snip to mark the top of the sleeve. I baste these inside the sewn-in sleeve, just inside the seam stitching.

Meg said...

Question: Does one use either sleeve heads or shoulder pads, or do you use both?

If you're in the NYC area, FIT has sleeve heads as does the sewing supply store across the street from it, I think around $1US per pair.

Linda said...

Marji - I'll take a pair of black sleeveheads from Else. I am also interested in getting the package you are putting together too. - LindaF

Rose said...

Marji-You continue to amaze me with your helpfulness!! Yes, to all your offers: the kit,sample pack, and sleeve heads(I'd prefer black but they seem to be popular. My coat is brown, don't think they will show so white is fine.) Just let me know what I need to pay you (if you haven't sold out alread!)

NancySeattle said...

Yes, to everything! I'd like a pair of black sleeve heads for my coat if possible. Thank you for the very generous effort of packaging and selling of the sample paks.

Sigrid said...

Yes, I would like the sleeveheads too, color not important. But as I'm in the Netherlands like Els is, no use to send them to the US first! Perhaps I can just buy them myself. Els, where do you buy them?

Unknown said...

I would be interest in the interfacing samples as well as the kits that are put together and the coat heads. I'm so new to all this - having someone put it together would ensure I have the right stuff :) g

laura said...

Ye to question 1 and 2 and I'd also like a pair of sleeve heads, black. Thanks much, Marji,

Laura

Mardel said...

Well, gee, I've only used the straight sleeve heads and I would live to try something new. I would like a pair of black, but actually either would suffice.

Heidi said...

I, too, would like one of everything you are packaging! My coat will be black, so I'll need the black sleeveheads, I suppose! Thanks so much for doing this. It's above and beyond!

Liana said...

I'd like a notions kit, black sleeveheads and I'd like to try the shoulderpads too.

Dawn said...

Yes on the samples set and yes on the notions set (prefer black) with the shoulder pads. :) Can pay whenever needed. . .

Nancy K said...

Marji, you must be one of those women who, the busier they are can be counted on no matter what!
Do you recommend the 3" wiggan? i have never used it before. I have used bias hymo for hems.
Lindsay, yes you use both sleeveheads and shoulder pads.

Just Me said...

Thanks,Marji. I would like the sample and notions package, including black sleeveheads (2 pair, if available)

a little sewing said...

I would like 2 sets of notions packages, including sleeve heads, in black and shoulder pads.
(but white is OK, if you run out of black)

Linda L said...

I would be interested in samples, but most particularly would like to order a black and white sleeve heads.

Mary OK said...

Yes, I would like a set of the notions (wigan, tape, sleeve heads, as detailed in Marji's email) and a set of the interfacings.

Nneka said...

I'm interested in any of the kits you eventually put together, and the sleeve heads of course!
Thanks,
-Nneka

Allison said...

I, too, would be interetsed in both pakages, Marji.

Allison

Liz said...

I would also like to receive both notions and samples packages. I would like white sleeve heads please.
thanks,
Liz

Claire said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Alexandra said...

I'd like a set of notions without shoulder pads. I don't think the color matters much as it's all going to be on the inside (in case it does matter to anyone, I'm making a black coat).

Thank you, Marji! You're putting a lot of thought and energy into this project.

Claire S. said...

To clarify my request as well, black sleeve heads, the notion pack with shoulder pads and sample pack of interfacings if you do them.

Thanks Marji

Claire S. said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Sharon Sews said...

Yes, I'd be interested in the kit, sample pack and sleeve heads. Thanks!

Claire said...

Let me try a 3rd time to get my order right....
I'll take both the Notion kit with shoulder pad and the sample kit. I do still want a black sleevehead as I stated in my first comment.

Geesh, do you think I got it right this time??? (rolling my eyes at myself)

Summerset said...

I'd like just the Notions Kit, please! Thanks!

Summerset said...

Duh. *With* shoulder pads. I should have read all of the post first.

Jenny said...

I live in Europe, but in a few weeks, I'm taking a trip to the States and plan a big Philadelphia fabric/notions shopping extravaganza! So short answer is, I don't need to order anything. Thank you!

Nancy Winningham said...

Marji - if the order is still available, I'd like a set, including shoulderpads and sleeveheads with tapes in black.
Thanks
Nancy

Lisa said...

Hi, Marji,
Thanks for the kind offer. Would you please send me the notions kit with white sleeve heads? Thank you so much. I will make my own shoulder pads.

Lisa

Nneka said...

Just commenting again to specify that I want the notions kit with shoulder pad and black sleeve heads if available.
Thanks!
-Nneka

Rose said...

I'm adding specifics to my previous comment. I would like the notions set with the set in sleeve shoulder pad, wigan and sleeve head in black if there is a choice. Also,I would like the sample set. These sets will be very helpful to me as a newbie coat sewer! Thanks to Linda for helping and to Marji for putting together these sets. I don't mind if you make money - just make sure your costs are covered

Anonymous said...

I would like a notions set with the shoulder pad, in black if possible. Thanks for putting this offer together, I hadn't heard of half the materials.

Melissa Fehr Trade said...

Els, I'm in the UK and I'd like to buy a set of sleeve heads off you please!

Ann_B said...

Marji, thanks so much. I would like the set with pads in black. I would also like the interfacing sample set please.

Jean in NC said...

Marji, thanks! What a great offer. I would like the notions set with shoulder pads in black.

Paula Gardner said...

I'd like the notions kit and a pair of black sleeve heads. Thanks!

AngelaO said...

I would like the notions kit, the black sleeve heads (white are ok if black aren't available), and the sample kit. Thanks!!!

Mardel said...

I guess I need to update my comment to be notion kit without shoulder pads but with the black sleeve head. Hmmm. Guess I wasn't reading well that day.