Thursday, July 17, 2008

Mary OK's second muslin updated

Edited to correct Burda style number

Here is my second muslin. I added pleats to Burda 11/2006 # 129 to copy Marfy F1022. There was no change to the fronts or the sleeves, but I think the shoulder pad may not be straight on the right shoulder. I added the collar and turned under the seam allowances on the front, collar, and lapel. I love the scale of the collar and lapel. I'm a little concerned about the ripples across the back. Any thoughts?

I am not sure about the wide cuffs as in the Marfy model, but am considering instead a vertical tab as in Burda 9/2006 style 101, below. I think I would turn them the other way, so the rounded edge is toward the back. I would love some feedback about that choice!

Edited to respond to Liana's comment:

Liana noticed the waist on the Marfy is raised. Suppose I start the pleats here:

I guess I didn't do that to start with because I was afraid it would look like a sack. Right now, the front is very roomy. I think I would have to fit the front better to make the higher waist look less sack-like.
Thank you, Liana!

In other comments, MaryJ and Nancy K noticed that the side seam tilts forward and the front hem tilts up. So I made these changes:

  • added 3/8" at center front, tapering to nothing at side seam
  • took in 1/8" to 1/4" on the side front seams from just below bust to hip
  • started the pleats higher, actually about 1" below the bust line.
The pictures:

I like the change in the front, but the back, not so much. I'm not feelin' it. Maybe the muslin is tired . . . I am surprise at how differently the back hangs when the pleats break higher up. It looks like I've lost that nice a-line shape that attracted me to the Marfy design.

I have printed out the chapter on drafting skirts, from (, and will read it tonight.


Linda said...

I wanted to take a closer look at the coat in the BWOF mag and I don't see this coat in issue 9/2006. #129 is a cap in that issue. Do you have the correct issue and number? I love the lines of the coat and want to be sure I have the right one, hopefully already in my Burda stash.

Mary OK said...

Linda, you are right -- the coat is in November 2006. It is a petite pattern. The original design has a top side front and bottom side front, with a pocket flap extension at the top of the bottom side front. I changed that by joining the top side front and bottom side front pieces. I'm not using the belt, either.

Liana said...

I am wondering about the pleats in the back. It looks like the Marfy pattern in a definite raised-waist, and the Burda not so much. It also looks like the pleats on the Marfy start higher, in line with the raised waist. It appears that the waistline on this coat is a natural waist height, and I wonder if this is causing more strain on the pleats? I may be way off here.

Nancy K said...

It looks like the front is rising and the side seam looks like a bit to far forward. It looks like it is in front of your leg.

MaryJ said...

yep, I second that. check your front waistline. It is rising at center front. You may need to add some lenght at cf. This will help with that hemline that is rising at the front.

Digs said...

I like the changes. The longer pleats give you a beautifully long legged look ;-) I think the back pleats would hang better if the narrowest part of the side seams matched the start of the pleats. In other words, I'd free up the waistline.... a couple of inches upwards. I'm curious what Marji will advise...