Edit ...
Marji - No, I didn't quite understand the 'cut 2 sizes smaller neckline' but will give it a go once I get home...It will probably make more sense once it's all sitting in front of me. I should try this before I attach the collar ? I would need the collar 2 sizes smaller as well, I would think. I did look at Tany's pic and have a good idea what I'm shooting for.
Linda - I haven't taken ANY comments with a grain of salt, but I have tried to incorporate (or at least understand) all of them. Anyone who is willing to help me is worth their weight in gold ! This info will help me later too, it's all a learning curve.
Last night after the latest attempt to fit the sleeves, self confidence was at an all-time low thinking this project is just too much for my skills at this stage of the game.
This morning, in the light of day (well, it was pouring rain w/thunder & lightning, but you get the picture) and with some encouraging comments (including those from a wonderful DH), I’m ready to tackle it again. So, thank you everyone.
Marji - I will try the narrow shoulder adj. I ‘finally’ figured out exactly which bone on my shoulder I should be measuring from - it’s only about 4.5" from where my necklace sits - is that short ? The shoulder line on my jacket is a full inch longer than that. I'll go back to Rosemary's post & ELS sleeve adj and make the most use of DH while he is still willing to help - this coat may wear him out at some point.
Linda - Yes, I did move the shoulder seam forward (1/4" at neckline, 1/2" at shoulder point). I moved the notch forward, but then there was too much bunching of the sleeve in front and not enough at the back, it pulled something fierce. So I ended up tilting the sleeve back instead - of course, we see how well THAT turned out :-)
My muslin is getting pretty crowded with original markings, adjustment lines and new seams.
While I am perfectly willing to do this, would it be worth my while to transfer the adjustments (the ones that have worked so far, waistline, vertical seams, low bust adj) on my tissue pattern and make a new, clean muslin - OR - just keep going on this one ?
Friday, July 18, 2008
ClaireS - THANK YOU ! - Edited
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2 comments:
Claire, you have narrow shoulders, but 4.5" is not abnormally narrow - just regular narrow. :)
You will find, moving forward, that if you make a narrow shoulder adj to most of your patterns your clothing will fit better. Bonus learning experience.
Meanwhile, I'd keep working with the muslin you have. If you choose to cut your fabric the way I cut mine you will not need to transfer all your markings and changes back to your pattern tissue, you'll work directly from the muslin with it's changes.
Another thing I'd like to see you do is put the collar on - quick and dirty, doesn't need to be finished or faced, just the upper collar with the seam allowances trimmed off the outside edge. I'm concerned about how far the neck edge is away from your neck.
Take a look at how close Tany's neck edge sits, then go study some of the other muslins up here, and see how closely the neck edge is to the intersection of collar and neck.
One thing I might suggest at this point - go back to your original pattern tissue, cut a slice of muslin from the CF around the neck (back too) cutting two sizes smaller, to bring that neck closer.
Then stitch the muslin onto the muslin you are currently working with.
If that doesn't make sense, leave a comment and I'll try to draw a pic later today.
Right now, I'm heading back down to the realm of formalwear. Silk chiffon and silk shantung and silk crepe-de chines. We have 4 dresses we're fitting and working on.
Ooooh, I am so glad Marji mentioned something about your neck fit. I was thinking the same thing. Putting in the collar will help tremendously. It made a difference on my coat.
I have the same shoulder seam length measurement as you. Plus you have a narrow neck. I hate to throw another measurement in here, especially when you are on the verge of frustration. But I find what is more important than just the shoulder seam length is the total shoulder front width. That way you incorporate your neck measurement into it also. Once you get that measurement, you can then figure out how much ease you want and alter from there. And you know where your shoulder joint is located, so all you need to do is measure from shoulder joint to shoulder joint and you have the total width measurement.
I sure do hope this helps and not confuses you. I would take my advice with a grain of salt and follow Marji. I just wanted to let you know you are not alone. We all feel your pain.
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