Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Pattern ideas

all material contained here is by MVZ and the Great Coat Sewalong and may not be reproduced without permission.
Pattern images belong to the pattern companies and are linked.

If you already have a pattern, great. If you don't, and this is your first coat, here are some of my thoughts: (and I'm looking mainly at classic coat designs)

**Please leave a message in the comments with your pattern number or BWOF number
if you've chosen already**

  • Look for a pattern drafted with a 2 piece sleeve.
  • Shoulder princess seams are easier to adjust for fit than armhole princess seams, and provide flattering vertical lines. If you're easy to fit or are adept at fitting, either seam type is good.
  • Full notched collars with a roll line are not difficult, we'll be going through the whole process here to make one, but they will require a bit more of your time than stand up or applied collars.
  • details like pockets are easily changed.
  • the decision to underline will be made based upon the fabric and pattern choice you make
  • the decision to interline will be made based upon how warm you need your coat to be

Vogue 7978 Vogue 7979

patterns It's unfortunate that Vogue has just added V7979 and V7978 to their discontinued list - both are very well drafted with shoulder princess seams and are still available by ordering on their website. Both of these coats also have collar variations and inseam pockets.

McCalls 5247 is a pattern that I know a few folks here either have or are considering.
It has the 2 pc sleeve and vertical princess seams. Again, I assume everyone here is willing to make a muslin, so fitting issues will be worked out then. I understand, although do not know for certain, that there is more wearing ease built into this pattern than the comparable Vogue patterns. (I'll discuss appropriate wearing ease measurements when we get to muslins in June).
I'm going to go buy this pattern today at the $1.99 sale just to have it so I know what some of you are working with.

Simplicity 4403 is another pattern that would be a good choice, and another that is discontinued! (and still available through their website acc'd to the info on the website)
Burda 7855 is still in print and should be in the drawers at the store.

Vogue 8346 Vogue 8307

If you choose a full skirted design, such as Vogue 8346 and Vogue 8307, you'll want to consider underlining the whole coat to support the wool in the fullness of the skirt.

I'm certain that there are great patterns available in some back issues of BWOF, and if you own those, great. There are also many many great OOP and vintage coat patterns.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

A Pattern I'm not crazy about, and why: Butterick 4665 doesn't have a 2 piece sleeve

Just for fun, follow this link for a look at my own personal coat pattern collection

I received an email from someone saying she was going to buy or trace a size larger than she typically wears to account for the wearing ease.
If you were thinking along these same lines, Don't.
A coat pattern is drafted taking into account the fact that it's meant to be worn over other clothing and has wearing ease built in. The first week in June, when we get to the step about muslins I'll post the guidelines for the amount of wearing ease (know that it's ballpark 6" - 10") and go through measuring the tissue prior to cutting. But when buying your pattern, buy your correct size.

Re a one piece and two piece sleeve:
When I cover fitting the muslin and pattern drafts I'll talk about the one and two piece sleeve, and cover how you can change your sleeve from one piece to two piece if you want to.

Next up - a discussion of fabrics.


Erica Bunker said...

I have a beautiful black/ivory houndstooth that I purchased last Fall, but never got around to making. I was inspired by a coat from Michael Kor's Fall 2007 Collection and I chose Butterick 5145, view B. I'll be sticking to car coat length because it's a very warm climate down here and I hardly ever need a full length coat. Also, if time permits, I will also do Vogue 2873 - Michael Kors peacoat.

Meg said...

Hi all. I bought some past-season Missoni wool boucle (it has a tight weave) that I am using for this project. I’m going for a Chanel look, sort of fall collection 2007. Like Erica, I want to keep my coat lightweight because—surprisingly—it doesn’t get that cold here in the NYC area. I have the McCalls pattern Marji mentions but I am also concerned about the ease with this pattern. So I’ve ordered the Riviera Kiss Me coat pattern from HP and I’ll first see how a muslin of that sews up. Marji, I got “tailoring” muslin from the FIT bookstore today.

ACorgiHouse said...

I'm using V8438. I have car length coats and jackets, but I need something more dress length. Most of my coats are in blacks and dark tweeds, so this one will be light. I like the length and collar of view c, but not the sleeve. Therefore I'll do c with the view a sleeves. K

Bonnie O. said...

My fabric is a pink wool coating. I will be using Vogue 8346 in a knee length version. I already made a muslin last fall and really like the style. My lining will be a brown and pink polka dot.

I like the way the notched collar looks but I am considering a shawl collar.

Michelle said...

I have a black wool coating with a silk twill in a print like what would be used on a man's tie for the lining. I'll be making the coat for my fiance and am using Vogue 9788, the single-breasted version. I am very excited about this project!! I may embark on a coat for myself after I finish this one. I picked up Vogue 2884, one of the vintage vogue patterns, the last time they had a sale on the website.

Linda said...

This is so exciting. First off, Thank YOU Marji for getting the idea to do this. This time I am going to participate on time instead of being behind the eight ball. But I have just 5 more days before I can totally sink myself into this. I just have to get to this Friday and finish the prom dress and then I am free to do what I want....almost. There is still the graduation dress and my graduation outfit. But we are starting in July and right now it is pick pattern and fabric, right?

lorrwill said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Digs said...

I haven't picked out a pattern yet - but as the fabric is a solid, I think a fairly splashy pattern could be fun. I could go for the traditional "camel cashmere" coat look, but I'm feeling a tad ambivalent about that. My main criterion is that I want the coat to be Canadian-winter wearable. At least a part of the winter. So it'll have to be long, have a large collar that I can turn up, and space for a large warm scarf. Of course my favourite scarf - a perfect red alpaca that I can wind round me a few times, clashes with this fabric - so I "neeeeeed" to get myself another, probably in off white or cream colour. Or, since this fabric is a solid, a patterned scarf! One good idea leads to another..... OK, I'd also love it if the coat could have a hood, but I suspect that'll be an impossibility if I also want it to look ahem, coutureish as opposed to amateurish.

SewingLibrarian said...

I"m going to work on a project that I meant to do last year and never got around to. I'm copying a coat I saw at Nordstrom, and I have to say I'm going to have an easier time than some. The coat has no lapels, a small stand up collar that I may eliminate, and closes with hooks and eyes, like a fur coat closes. This should be very easy with no buttonholes, no lapels. However, there is a trim made from self fabric that is kind of ruffled/pleated, so I'll have to figure that out. I'm planning to use my standard jacket pattern (FSG 1945C) and lengthen it to knee length. I plan to wear this with a matching skirt or with black or gray pants. The fabric is a grey tweed boucle type wool. I don't need a heavy coat here in San Diego so this is more of an ensemble look. Kudos to Marji for organizing this! I've already learned from this experience - didn't about B. Black and Sons who are up the road (I-5) from me until I looked at the list of suppliers on the sidebar.

When Ladies Dressed said...

Thanks for both the invite to participate and for organizing the whole thing. Although I've made a few lined jackets (with varying degrees of success), I've not yet tried a coat.

I have a vintage pattern, but I'm not sure that I want to make it for the sew along. I'm currently on the hunt for the right pattern!

Thanks again Marji! Kellie

a little sewing said...

Brilliant, Marji! I already have 2 versions of Vogue 7978 and I really want my next coat to have a vent in the back to accomodate brisk walking. It looks like V7979 is just what I am looking for. And since fitting is always my biggest challenge, I'd like to leverage the nice bodice & sleeve I have already in the V7978.
You answered my very first question. (And right at the beginning of your post, so thanks!)
Time to go Fabric Shopping!!

When Ladies Dressed said...

OK - I'm back... I really like Vogue 8438. I love the shape that the princess seams give it an the pleats in the collar. The question is, version A or B - which length. hmmmm

Christine said...

Hi all,

No pattern OR fabric picked yet. I already have a black wool coat (RTW Evan Picone) which is OK, but I'd like to have a brown coat as well, so I'm thinking about doing one for the sewalong. I like the look of McCalls 5594 (not sure if it would adapt to a longer length and a medium-to-heavier weight fabric).

Rose said...

I'm going to use Burda 7855 for this sew-along. I thought that I had wool fabric but discovered it has 25% polyester. Oh, Boo Hoo, I'll have to buy more fabric. Since this is my first coat, I want to stick closely to your guidelines. We are having a "cold front" - only 83 degrees outside so it's a good day for coat planning. Thank you, Marji, for sparking my excitement (and, obviously, the excitement of many others) and taking the time to organize and instruct us.

ejvc said...

Hi all,

I really want to make BWOF 11/2007-102. I have some sort of space-age dark silver fabric and I'd like to make the collar and ruffle from a matching grey velvet and have a great evening coat.

Now then, for a warm winter coat BWOF 10/2007-111 is a classic double-breasted full length coat with two-piece sleeves and armhole princess seams. But I *really* want a coat with a bigger or shawl collar - I haven't found a pattern though. Any recommendations? I have no fabric for this yet.

I'm not saying I'll make two, mind you, and I *need* a warm coat. But my mind wants an evening coat.



Maggie said...

Hello, I LOVE this idea of a sew along for a winter coat. I have had one simmering for a while. It doesn't seem to get too cold here (Southern New England) to warrant a very heavy one on a daily basis, but when the cold days do hit I'm always sorry I didn't make that coat! My fabric is a camel hair that has aged for about 5 years in my stash. My patterns choices(not sure which one I like) are: A vogue Ralph Lauren vintage polo coat 2784, a Vogue Sybil Connolly empire style 1521, and a Vogue Yves St. Laurent knee length double breasted 2763...all vintage. I have the supplies and am ready to go!
Thanks for the idea!

Linda said...

I have yet to make that final decision though I am leaning toward one of the Vogue patterns. I have a great piece of cashmere/wool fabric I acquired from Fabric Mart. My concern is that it is a small plaid. I don't think I want to get bogged down in trying to match up the plaids, etc. so I am looking at Gorgeous Fabrics or Fashion Fabric Club, going for a solid color. I plan to make my final decision this long holiday weekend and acquired the pattern.

Sally said...

Thanks for the invitation Marji. I think this will be a fun project - what a great idea!

In southern Ohio, we are right on the border with Kentucky. There are probably six weeks each year that I need my heavy wool coat. But for Nov/early Dec/late Feb/early March I need something lighter.

I really like a couple of coats from the last two issues of Burda Plus, so I'm going to narrow it down this weekend.

Many years ago, I had a wonderful winter white coat that I just loved. I may have to do that again.

Looking forward to everyone's projects!

Just Me said...

I'm so excited to join this blog. I think that I, like Marji, have a fascination with sewing coats. I have 3 (yes, 3!!!) coat patterns that I want to do for this fall. They are: a trenchcoat (Simplicity 4084-- discontinued, but I managed to find the pattern on ebay), a wool coat using Burda 8292 in a cashmere/wool blend from Gorgeous Fabrics, and finally I want to do Issy Miyake standby 1486.
Marji, I would love your suggestions on Issey Miyake fabric. I know it has to be flowy/drapey, and I want to use a solid color to avoid looking like an elephant. Do you suggest double-knit? What did you use?

Finally, the trenchcoat material that I wanted to use was sold out at Textile Studio-- it was a paisley nylon... brown paisley on tan... just the look I wanted. I'd appreciate any suggestions of where else I might source this kind of material suitable for a lightweight trenchcoat.

cidell said...

Marji, I'm making a trench coat from the 9-2006-103 trench (and probably a tailored jacket along the way). I do want to add a button out lining, so that will be part of my challenge.

Lynn said...

Thank you for inviting me, Marji. I'm making Ottobre Winter 5/2006 #20 boy's jacket. I'm using a choc. brown and gold herringbone tweed. I was planning on making this last year, and got intimidated, so I am grateful for the sew along.

Nneka said...

This will be my first coat ever! I don't really need a coat, but I love them, and so here I am. I'm deciding between Butterick 5145, Vogue 8465, and Vogue 2935 (Sandra Betzina). I'm just about between the Betzina -- fits my lifestyle/climate -- and the other Vogue, which I like because it is not so practical for really cold weather (perfect for N. Texas "winters").

merry-one said...

Talk about timing! Marji, I just read your post regarding cashmere -- that's me. I purchased cashmere last year and didn't have the correct pattern (or so I thought after reading Claire Schaeffer's book) so I put it aside. My cashmere is a very soft, drapey, and somewhat thin. Perfect for a DC winter coat. I'm planning on a blend of S3966 (OOP) built by Wendy coat with V7978. I like the collar on S3966 and my body needs the seaming from V7976.

Mary OK said...

I am so delighted to be able to join this group. I am sewing the trenchcoat from Burda WOF 1/2008, style no. 128, using a bright blue-red wool gabardine from my stash and trimmed with synthetic python trim. I will definitely underline the fabric, but not sure yet about interlining. Here in Tidewater Va., I can get a lot of use out of a light coat. I'm ordering my muslin tonight.

Jean in NC said...

This is so exciting! I have wanted to sew a coat for some time and now have the perfect motivation to do just that. I will be making Butterick 5145 view A or Butterick 4865 view D. Our winters in North Carolina are fairly mild so I will be making the shorter versions. I love the trendy but different style of each pattern so making a choice will be hard. Maybe I will just have to make both. We shall see. Anyway, thank you Marji for coming up with this fantastic idea!