Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern. Show all posts

Monday, June 9, 2008

Admin: a preliminary list of who is sewing what

Yesterday, when I was talking with Els, she asked if we could put a list on the sidebar of who is making what pattern.
Before we do that, I quickly gathered the info from previous posts on plans and made a preliminary list. Some of you have multiple choices but not a decision, so your entry may not show here, others of you are still deciding.
It will be nice to have a list so that you can all see who is making the same pattern as you.

so, update us in the comments, ok?

BWOF 9/05.102 MelissaF, LisetteM, KayY
BWOF 9/06.103
BWOF 9/06.126
Cidell, MaryOK
Digs,
BWOF 10/06. LindaF
Burda 7855 LauraM, LindaF, Rose
Burda 8022 ChristineB, Dawn,
Burda 8171 Heidi
Burda 8292 NancySeattle, Silver Threads
Butterick 4663 SuitYourself
Butterick 4665 Adrienne, Sigrid
Butterick 5145 EricaB, Patrice, Jean-in-NC, Alethia
Marfy F1414 Jenny
McCalls 5247 Jamie, LindaDanville, Digs
McCalls 5513 Sandra
McCalls 5525 Lucinda
Neue Mode 23448 SuitYourself
Patrones n247.30
Patrones n249
Tany
Angela O
Simplicity 3672 Silver Threads,
Simplicity 4084 Silver Threads, NancyK, Susan (FabricLuver)
Simplicity 4403 ClaireC, Erin, Patrice, AnnB
Vogue 1032 Zoubida
Vogue 1266 Laura, Diggs
Vogue 2475 Caity
Vogue 2873 Marji, EricaB
Vogue 2884 PattiF, Susan (FabricLuver)
Vogue 2922 Marji,
Vogue 2935 Nneka
Vogue 2988 Elizabeth
Vogue 7978 LindsayT, Carolyn, MarilynB, MaryOK
Vogue 7979 Robin
Vogue 8299 Vicki
Vogue 8306 NancyK,
Vogue 8346 Lisa, Bonnie, Gaylen, ClaireS
Vogue 8438 KarenT, Adrienne, Cennetta
Vogue 8480 Bonnie, Patrice
Vintage or OOP editions Marji, CafeCouture, Shannon, Marguerite, MarilynB, BarbaraP, Susanne
Mens MichelleL, Jamie

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Melissa's long, grey overcoat

I've been planning on sewing myself a new winter coat for a while now, and I've been lurking here for a bit, but after I saw the timeline over on the right, I finally realised I can jump right in and sew this alongside all my other summer sewing!

I've already bought my exterior fabric - some gorgeous charcoal grey, 100% wool coating fabric from Rosenberg's (they've got lots more fabric than what's listed on the site!).



I will also soon be buying Thinsulate for my underlining, as soon as payday comes and I can finance all the other fabrics I want from that site alongside it! I'm still undecided on my choice of lining fabric because I'm so tough on the linings of my RTW coats. I'm trying to sew only with natural fibers these days, but I think silk will be far too fragile for me.

As far as my coat needs go, I walk to work about 35 minutes each way every day, and my commute takes me over the very windy Tower Bridge! So I need my coat to be very windproof and warm (wich I think the Thinsulate will provide) but also very long so my legs don't get too cold. I know from experience that the wind goes right through jeans and corduroys, and god help me if I'm wearing a skirt!

Keeping all this in mind, I've decided I'm going to sew #102 from September 2005 Burda World of Fashion magazine, which someone else on here has kindly already scanned:



I don't think I'm too far behind schedule here so hopefully I won't need to play catchup! I'll be posting these updates simultaneous on Fehr Trade so outsiders can still see what I'm up to!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Pattern ideas

all material contained here is by MVZ and the Great Coat Sewalong and may not be reproduced without permission.
Pattern images belong to the pattern companies and are linked.

If you already have a pattern, great. If you don't, and this is your first coat, here are some of my thoughts: (and I'm looking mainly at classic coat designs)

**Please leave a message in the comments with your pattern number or BWOF number
if you've chosen already**

  • Look for a pattern drafted with a 2 piece sleeve.
  • Shoulder princess seams are easier to adjust for fit than armhole princess seams, and provide flattering vertical lines. If you're easy to fit or are adept at fitting, either seam type is good.
  • Full notched collars with a roll line are not difficult, we'll be going through the whole process here to make one, but they will require a bit more of your time than stand up or applied collars.
  • details like pockets are easily changed.
  • the decision to underline will be made based upon the fabric and pattern choice you make
  • the decision to interline will be made based upon how warm you need your coat to be




Vogue 7978 Vogue 7979

patterns It's unfortunate that Vogue has just added V7979 and V7978 to their discontinued list - both are very well drafted with shoulder princess seams and are still available by ordering on their website. Both of these coats also have collar variations and inseam pockets.

McCalls 5247 is a pattern that I know a few folks here either have or are considering.
It has the 2 pc sleeve and vertical princess seams. Again, I assume everyone here is willing to make a muslin, so fitting issues will be worked out then. I understand, although do not know for certain, that there is more wearing ease built into this pattern than the comparable Vogue patterns. (I'll discuss appropriate wearing ease measurements when we get to muslins in June).
I'm going to go buy this pattern today at the $1.99 sale just to have it so I know what some of you are working with.

Simplicity 4403 is another pattern that would be a good choice, and another that is discontinued! (and still available through their website acc'd to the info on the website)
Burda 7855 is still in print and should be in the drawers at the store.



Vogue 8346 Vogue 8307

If you choose a full skirted design, such as Vogue 8346 and Vogue 8307, you'll want to consider underlining the whole coat to support the wool in the fullness of the skirt.

I'm certain that there are great patterns available in some back issues of BWOF, and if you own those, great. There are also many many great OOP and vintage coat patterns.
I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

A Pattern I'm not crazy about, and why: Butterick 4665 doesn't have a 2 piece sleeve

Just for fun, follow this link for a look at my own personal coat pattern collection

I received an email from someone saying she was going to buy or trace a size larger than she typically wears to account for the wearing ease.
If you were thinking along these same lines, Don't.
A coat pattern is drafted taking into account the fact that it's meant to be worn over other clothing and has wearing ease built in. The first week in June, when we get to the step about muslins I'll post the guidelines for the amount of wearing ease (know that it's ballpark 6" - 10") and go through measuring the tissue prior to cutting. But when buying your pattern, buy your correct size.

Re a one piece and two piece sleeve:
When I cover fitting the muslin and pattern drafts I'll talk about the one and two piece sleeve, and cover how you can change your sleeve from one piece to two piece if you want to.

Next up - a discussion of fabrics.