Well, the title says it all - so many coats, so little time!
I have plans for three:
1. Fall coat: coral-coloured cashmere (from Michael's). This is my first-choice project: I love the fabric, and I'm willing to forgo all else to make it. I haven't quite yet settled on a pattern. I have just 3.3 yds (3.1 m) so it won't be a long or complicated coat. At the moment, the pattern possibilities are: Vogue 8438 view B; Vogue 7978 view D or E; or McCall's 5247 view C. Vogue 7979 is no longer available in our neighbourhood.... For underlining choices I have cotton batiste, cotton-silk batiste, and silk organza. Wow, they all seem so WIMPY: can they REALLY do the job???!!! I'd love it if someone could advise me as to which would be best. I'm not going to use fusibles. I'm also thinking, what about a fine worsted or gabardine wool as underlining? It would provide plenty of body and improve warmth. Warmth is very desirable here in Ottawa, the weather can change from summer to winter overnight! This coat's lining will be a silk charmeuse in a lovely red/orange-dominated colour mix. I think it's that brilliant Mandelbrot-wannabe orange "Maggy London" one from Fabric Club, but I bought it so long ago, I don't quite remember its origin. It's wild though, and I love it. The solid fashion fabric and jazzy lining work very well together.
2. Winter coat: black with grey pinstripe, wool-cashmere flannel. This one's from a fabric supplier on ebay, and I have 5 yds. I want this one to be a long "Russian soldier" type coat, and my pattern is Vogue 1266 view B: double breasted with a large collar. I have a black silk jacquard with gold zodiac prints for lining. I'm also thinking of using a Fabric Club freebie, a polyester knit fleece, as interlining for warmth. The fashion fabric feels sturdy enough not to need underlining, but I'm willing to be persuaded otherwise. Should I use some silk organza, just to keep it all together?
Here's a link to the fashion fabric and lining.
3. Rain coat: yup, I got 3.3 yds of that Burberry-style raincoating cotton from Michael's (and 2 yds of the turquoise to make a jacket for my DS). Well, having looked at this acquisition for a while now, it sure seems very-in-my-face red. I'm not sure if I wouldn't prefer my raincoat to be more neutral - like the tan that's currently available from Denver Fabrics (and yes, I just ordered 4.5 yds of it!). This one is not intended to be warm, and I have the matching lining. I want to do a shameless classic trench knockoff out of it. No pattern picked out yet, but it'll need to have the front & back yokes, the back vent tab, the belt, the sleeve tabs, and the epaulettes. I would LOVE it if I could fit a hidden hood under the collar, but this may be too much to ask (comments???). Pattern suggestions, anyone? I might adapt McCall's 5480 for a hooded above-the knee jacket, since I already have that one, and it has the raglan sleeve I'd like to try. I'm going to stall on this one, as our local pattern supplier is having a succession of weekly specials, so over the next couple of weeks I'm going to pick up some patterns that might be adaptable.
Most of all, I'd love to make at least one of these in a raglan sleeve pattern. Apart from the M5480, which is pretty unfitted, I haven't found THE appropriate raglan coat pattern yet. Would love to hear a hint as to where to find one!
Advice, comments & criticisms are ALL more than welcome!
Friday, May 30, 2008
Digs' "Dream On" coat plans
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3 comments:
Digs, cashmere, because of the nature of the shape of the fiber, provides a lot of warmth for the weight of the fiber. As to whether the underlinings you have will support the fabric, I suspect any one of them would do the job - they will provide support for shaping the coat and prevent the bagging out at the elbow and seat that you would get if you didn't underline.
However, none of them will add warmth, or insulation as a wind block. Since you're also using a lightweight lining, I'd suggest considering an underlining that will also add warmth factor - cotton flannel would be a good choice.
Is the cashmere/wool blend a coating weight? Would something acting as a windblock just on the front chest and back shoulder areas do what you need for additional warmth?
The interfacing layer will layer some interfacings including a chest and back shield and you could play with adding a windblock inside at those places.
Just some thoughts.
There are a couple of BWOF trench coat patterns with raglan sleeves if you have access to old magazines. They don't have princess seaming, so I decided not to use as I need a more fitted coat, with princess seams.
Also, I keep meaning to post it, but keep forgetting - there is a Shermane Fouche trenchcoat pattern that has raglan sleeves and a covered button placket. Shermane Fouche patterns are found on Louise Cutting's website.
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