Digs' "Dream On" coat plans

Well, the title says it all - so many coats, so little time!

I have plans for three:

1. Fall coat: coral-coloured cashmere (from Michael's). This is my first-choice project: I love the fabric, and I'm willing to forgo all else to make it. I haven't quite yet settled on a pattern. I have just 3.3 yds (3.1 m) so it won't be a long or complicated coat. At the moment, the pattern possibilities are: Vogue 8438 view B; Vogue 7978 view D or E; or McCall's 5247 view C. Vogue 7979 is no longer available in our neighbourhood.... For underlining choices I have cotton batiste, cotton-silk batiste, and silk organza. Wow, they all seem so WIMPY: can they REALLY do the job???!!! I'd love it if someone could advise me as to which would be best. I'm not going to use fusibles. I'm also thinking, what about a fine worsted or gabardine wool as underlining? It would provide plenty of body and improve warmth. Warmth is very desirable here in Ottawa, the weather can change from summer to winter overnight! This coat's lining will be a silk charmeuse in a lovely red/orange-dominated colour mix. I think it's that brilliant Mandelbrot-wannabe orange "Maggy London" one from Fabric Club, but I bought it so long ago, I don't quite remember its origin. It's wild though, and I love it. The solid fashion fabric and jazzy lining work very well together.

2. Winter coat: black with grey pinstripe, wool-cashmere flannel. This one's from a fabric supplier on ebay, and I have 5 yds. I want this one to be a long "Russian soldier" type coat, and my pattern is Vogue 1266 view B: double breasted with a large collar. I have a black silk jacquard with gold zodiac prints for lining. I'm also thinking of using a Fabric Club freebie, a polyester knit fleece, as interlining for warmth. The fashion fabric feels sturdy enough not to need underlining, but I'm willing to be persuaded otherwise. Should I use some silk organza, just to keep it all together?

Here's a link to the fashion fabric and lining.


3. Rain coat: yup, I got 3.3 yds of that Burberry-style raincoating cotton from Michael's (and 2 yds of the turquoise to make a jacket for my DS). Well, having looked at this acquisition for a while now, it sure seems very-in-my-face red. I'm not sure if I wouldn't prefer my raincoat to be more neutral - like the tan that's currently available from Denver Fabrics (and yes, I just ordered 4.5 yds of it!). This one is not intended to be warm, and I have the matching lining. I want to do a shameless classic trench knockoff out of it. No pattern picked out yet, but it'll need to have the front & back yokes, the back vent tab, the belt, the sleeve tabs, and the epaulettes. I would LOVE it if I could fit a hidden hood under the collar, but this may be too much to ask (comments???). Pattern suggestions, anyone? I might adapt McCall's 5480 for a hooded above-the knee jacket, since I already have that one, and it has the raglan sleeve I'd like to try. I'm going to stall on this one, as our local pattern supplier is having a succession of weekly specials, so over the next couple of weeks I'm going to pick up some patterns that might be adaptable.

Most of all, I'd love to make at least one of these in a raglan sleeve pattern. Apart from the M5480, which is pretty unfitted, I haven't found THE appropriate raglan coat pattern yet. Would love to hear a hint as to where to find one!

Advice, comments & criticisms are ALL more than welcome!

Specialty and Luxury Fabrics

I want to take a minute to post about some of the specialty fibers out there.
I've noticed from reading many of the posts that there are two separate fabrics that both will require some special handling that many folks here plan to use. And then there is the question of the mohair that Susan has asked about.
The specialty fabrics are Cashmere, and the B*berry raincoating that is turning up everywhere.

first off, I'll talk about specialty animal hair fibers.
Cashmere is the fiber of the Kashmir goat, and comes from Asia, Tibet, India, and parts of China. It's expensive because the annual production is relatively small and demand is fairly high. There are varying qualities of cashmere available now, determined by staple fiber length and fineness of the fiber. The fine short fibers are 1-3.5" long, the coarser longer fibers vary from 2-5". It's also known to be warm relative to the weight of the fabric.

Mohair is the fiber of the Angora Goat. The fibers are fine and silky and measure 4"-6" or 9"-12" depending upon how often the goats are sheared. Mohair is "remarkably resistant to abrasion and wear" Paraphrased from Textile Science by MarjoryL.Joseph c. 1977.

Claire Schaeffer, in her Sew Any Fabric Quick Reference Guide recommends "Simple designs, minimal seaming, topsitching." She cautions to avoid intricate details when working with 100% animal hair fabrics.
She recommends lightweight silk as underlining to add structure for coats and jackets. I'll add a recommendation of the fine cotton batiste or silk/cotton batiste (see Farmhouse Fabrics silk cotton batiste blend)

When pressing both cashmere and mohair it's really important to test press scraps first and use a press cloth, and press on the wrong side only.
Again, Claire Schaeffer cautions that Mohair is easily damaged by steaming and improper pressing. Covering the ironing surface with a towel or piece of wool will help to protect the right side surface from crushing.

Adele Margolis, in The Complete Book of Tailoring Suggests designs with simple lines and few pattern pieces for Mohair fabrics, and underlining with china silk or silk organza in a matching color.

Both cashmere and mohair fabrics should be treated as Nap fabrics and a one-way layout should be used.
This information applies also to fabrics that are wool/animal hair blends. ie wool/cashmere or wool/mohair blends.

The two lines the 464 pg The Vogue Sewing Book devotes to instructions on "sewing with luxury fabrics" says "Don't skimp on the inner fabrics: interfacings, underlinings, and lining fabrics should match your fashion fabric's quality. And please, make a test muslin--the time spent is well worth the effort".

Bottom line, if you're planning on sewing with an animal hair fiber, other than wool, plan on underlining, and plan on using some extra care in sewing and handling.
All of my knowledge and experience, and everything I've been able to look up in my various source references, all make me feel confident in saying that you can make buttonholes, collars, and pockets in lovely coats using animal hair fabrics, including mohair.

Susan, I think the design lines of the jacket that you're looking at would be fine with a mohair fabric. I would avoid designs with gathers, pleats, and any other fussy details. But Vogue 2884 is a loosely fitting jacket with just a few pieces, so I really think you'll be fine.

KayY said...Threads #91 (November 2000) has an article on sewing with mohair which recommends caution in lining and underlining mohair because of the sag factor. It suggests quilting layers together à la Chanel, or letting the lining hang free at the hem. Sandra Betzina is the author.