Q&A number 1

Someone writes, and many others have expressed similar thoughts:
Thank you again for taking time to answer my amateur questions!

Well, the people here who are experts don’t NEED the questions answered. They’re mostly along for the ride and to get some sewing done. You’re welcome, certainly, but please folks, ask the questions and either myself or someone who does know should be able to answer them. Don’t apologize, feel silly, or worst case – not ask, because you think it’s an amateur question. Answering the questions is how this whole thing got started.

Kathleen wrote
about interlinings and underlinings and differing terminology in the comments under the appropriate post.
I find it interesting, However, for the purposes of This Sew Along I’m going to use the same terminology I’ve always used. First, I need to be able to write the way I think. I get mixed up enough typing different letters than I’m thinking at times, without trying to change my thinking about what’s what. So, for everything that I write here, please refer to the definitions I’ve set forth in the guidelines posts.

ClaireC writes:
I will underline in cotton flannel. I already have white. Would you recommend I purchase red or black? The fabric isn't see through at all, being coat weight, but I wonder if a darker color might be better.

I like to match my color, because that’s how I am. But, I happen to know someone who’s on this sewalong, who’s used printed children’s flannel before as underlining. It’s not going to show – so use whatever makes you happy.

You Will want to wash that cotton flannel in hot water and hot dryer several times to get all the shrinkage out, whatever color you choose – we’ll talk more about that in June.

Jenny writes:
Am I correct in assuming that whether to interline or not is purely personal preference? I was planning to use thinsulate with my wool flannel to make a winter-worthy coat. Is wool flannel already thick enough without? I guess it's hard to say without feeling it... I think I'll go with the thinsulate.

Yes, Interlining for warmth is strictly personal preference. I have several coats that are simply too warm for where I live now – I used to live in Northern Michigan and they were perfect – here they are overkill. My purple coat will be underlined because the fabric needs the support, but I’m leaving the interlining out so that I can wear it without heat exhaustion.

If you are using a coating weight flannel, unless you live in the Arctic Zone or have to walk across windy bridges like Melissa does, may I suggest using a cotton flannel or lambswool to interline? Based upon KayY’s experience, Thinsulate may present some construction issues that you don’t need. If you really really need a lot of insulating warmth, you could interline with the lambswool then use a flannel-back lining (Kasha or Sunback) and you’d have a coat worthy of the coldest Minnesota winter.

for Stitch-stitch and Lucinda

I have the link for the Armani jacket interfacing techniques in my next post (soon, I promise) – but it’s here if you want to peek. Taunton Press has an index to all the Threads issues here. I’ve been going through my back issues, and found an article back in issue 27 where Claire Schaeffer took apart a Dior jacket and found a similar structure using fusibles and sew-in’s, in combination.

MaryOK writes in relation to using a wool gabardine
I think I need to underline this garment for weight (not warmth). I have several underlining choices in my stash, and wonder how big my test samples should be.

Underlining is meant to support the fabric you’re using, not change the weight. In the case of fusing texture weft to boucle, it changes the texture only to the point that the fabric isn’t as fluid. With a wool, the fabric itself should be beefy enough for the coat you want to make. If you’re underlining the gab, it should be only because you want the gabardine to look crisp enough for your design. I’m not certain exactly what you mean by underlining for weight, if it’s to just support the gabardine, then fine, but if you’re trying to make a lightweight gab heavy enough for a coat by underlining, I think you may not be happy with your results.

Regarding Gabardine

There are woolen spun yarns, and worsted spun yarns. Both are woven into fabrics that have very different characteristics. Woolen spun yarns are low twist spun with shorter staple fibers and are woven into fabrics such as wool flannel that have loft yet are lightweight, increasing their insulation value relative to the weight of the fabric.

Worsted spun yarns using longer staple fibers that are highly twisted and spun tight are woven into hard finish fabrics such as Gabardine. They are beautiful, but Not among the easiest fabrics to work with. They require careful preshrinking before tailoring, and must be pressed carefully to avoid seam allowance shadow and show through.

Susanne, the owner of FineFabrics, is joining us, and she’s got a jacket underway in gabardine right now. I’ve asked her if she wouldn’t mind writing a bit about sewing a jacket or coat with it….and I’m putting her on the spot by posting this before she’s had a chance to tell me whether or not she can.

As an aside, for a bit of interesting information on Worsted Woolens read this from a Bestoke tailor, and http://www.american.com/archive/2007/may-june-magazine-contents/the-controversy-over-super-wool/>this> about the history of worsted wools.

Nneka writes:
Of the underlinings listed (and including silk organza) does anyone have any thoughts on which are less or more "intrusive" on the original drape of the fashion fabric?

Same as above – you want to choose an underlining that will support your fabric without changing the weight of it. And, you’ll need to sandwich some underlinings between your wool and your linings to see.

If it’s too lightweight, it’s no good because it won’t do what it’s supposed to, yet if it’s too stiff, heavy or beefy, it’ll overwhelm your fabric. I’ve got a very lightweight felted wool from Ungaro that I’m going to test out with a china silk and a cotton batiste. I think cotton broadcloth would overwhelm it. I’ve got a boucle that I started to make a coat from without underlining (what was I thinking of?), that I’ve got to take apart some seams on, and underline it. I went and bought a black cotton flannel that is soft enough to move with the boucle, the color matches the fabric so any show-through is not a problem, and it’ll suppor the boucle wonderfully. I can’t fuse this one, as there are metallic yarns making a plaid in the boucle, and they don’t like to be ironed.

My point is, each fabric must be tested with all the fabrics and interfacings you plan to use. You might feel you’ve got a great match, until you layer it and find that – you don’t.

BTW, silk organza is my underlining of choice for dressmaking – for silks (excepting silk crepes), for wool crepes, and for many other fabrics. It is not, however, my choice underlining for coats. Personal preference and experience. And as I hope to emphasize throughout – there are different ways of getting at the same problem. You might try out 4 different underlinings and like the weight, feel, and drape of the organza the best – then use it.

Re fusibles – you MUST fuse a sample to understand how it affects the drape of the fabric. The fabric (net, knit, whatever) and the fusing agent (glue) combine to create the end result. Easy knit is a fusible that I like in hand, and Absolutely detest once it’s fused – it ends up feeling like a board due to the glue they’re using.

And I will say that of all the underlinings I’ve tried with various boucles, sew-ins and fusibles, I’ve been happiest with the weft insertion fusibles (such as Armo-weft). Knock this traditionalist over with a feather!

NancyK writes:
Is there a way to change an armhole princess to a shoulder princess?

Yes, and it’s easy. Basically you’re going to convert the dart shaping from the armhole to dart shaping emanating from the shoulder. If you want I’ll draw it out and take pictures. I’m not drawing in Paint,net for awhile, I’m not very good at it.

MarilynB asked about thinsulate

I’ve never used Thinsulate. Others here have. I’m copying and pasting the pertinent parts of some of the discussion between Melissa Fehr and KayY. Kay made a coat last year which she reviewed on Pattern Review here, and had some challenges with the thinsulate.

Posted by KayY to The Great Coat Sew-Along

A caution re the Thinsulate you linked to - 150gm weight is quite thick and does not drape, even slightly. I used this weight in a very different type of winter coat I made in 2006. I reviewed it on PR in a review I've just edited to fix picture links so should be near the top. If you go to the pictures you will see how this weight of Thinsulate drapes (it doesn't). If you can, you could choose a lighter weight of Thinsulate (it comes in 40gm for example). Or substitute more traditional tailoring materials such as lambs wool and kasha lining. Once you layer, and especially if you include a windproof layer (i.e. chamois in the upper back) it will be plenty warm.

Posted by Melissa Fehr Trade to The Great Coat Sew-Along

thanks, Kayy. I'm trying to avoid transatlantic shipping charges because they're really expensive from merchants right now. Pennine Outdoor seemed to have a few possibilities other than the Thinsulate so I've emailed them explaining what I need and asking for their advice. They're outdoor (camping, trekking, etc) specialists and they seem to know their stuff, so fingers crossed. In addition to the Thinsulate, fleece, and microfibre, they also stock something called Meraklon which they say has a really high thermal insulation power, is heard wearing and fast drying for winter sports. So perhaps that would work if it's not too thick, but it's so hard to tell without handling bolts of this stuff! Hopefully I'll hear back from them soon and I'll write an update post with what I find out...

Posted by KayY to The Great Coat Sew-Along at May 29, 2008 8:14 PM

I am planning to add a chamois piece in the upper back of my winter coat to block the wind. It'll go between the coating and the lining/interlining sandwich.

Posted by KayY to The Great Coat Sew-Along at May 29, 2008 5:10 PM

There is a source in Canada for lighter weight Thinsulate - it's Textile Outfitters (justmakeit.com). But I would still be wary of the drape factor. Another material you could consider for interlining is a lightweight polar fleece. I used that in another jacket - very warm, and drapier than any weight of Thinsulate.

Linda writes:
Can you mention pretreating wool fabric?

It's on deck for June, along with making your fitting muslin. You do need to preshrink your fashion fabric, even if you plan on dry cleaning it. I'll go over the London shrink method, steaming, and sending it out to the dry cleaners to have them steam it.
We'll also be graining up these fabrics.

Ok, there are undoubtedly questions that I’ve failed to answer. If I didn’t get to something you need to know, and no one else has popped on to answer it, leave a message in the comments here and I’ll get to it.

*is there someone who’s really really well versed in using blogger that might want to sign on as an admin for this blog, just to help me along with housekeeping issues? Email me.