Liana: Cashmere Questions

I wasn't sure if I should start a new post on this but I have several questions about what I should do with my fabric. As you know, it's 100% cashmere. I've read all the pertinent info you have posted on fabric, luxury fabrics, underlining, fabric prep, etc., and I still have questions.

1. I was planning to have it pre-shrunk at the cleaner's. I was thinking of just having them steam press it rather than clean it, although they are a CO2 cleaner which might be gentler anyway. But, all the texts mention rather strongly that steam can damage cashmere. What do you suggest? I'm not one who routinely sends clothing to the dry cleaners. I brush, air and shake them, and only if there's actual dirt would I send this to the cleaners. So I'm a little worried about taking my gorgeous fabric to them now to see if it will come back unharmed. Am I worried about nothing here?

2. It's extremely soft and drapey, and definitely needs underlining. I have tried lots of fabrics with it using your over-the-arm test and also holding both fabrics together and holding them up to myself in front of a mirror, and silk broadcloth and silk organza (which I happened to have on hand) seem to be way too lightweight. The cashmere is soft enough that if I drape it over my hand, I can see my knuckles, etc. right through it. This continues to be the case with organza and broadcloth, although 2 layers of broadcloth will soften the knuckle-effect a bit. I don't have enough silk broadcloth to do a double layer, and I think a double layer of anything is just asking for trouble anyway. I tried Pam's non-fusible interfacing under it, and I think that's what I am leaning toward. It gives it a tiny bit of body, yet it still falls in beautiful folds. Do you think I will be okay with this plan, or do you have any other ideas? This fabric is so soft by itself and I don't want this coat to look like a limp rag, or to show outlines of the shoulderpads, etc. I don't think I want flannel, as I don't believe I need the extra warmth. I'm planning on lining with silk charmeuse.

Specialty and Luxury Fabrics

I want to take a minute to post about some of the specialty fibers out there.
I've noticed from reading many of the posts that there are two separate fabrics that both will require some special handling that many folks here plan to use. And then there is the question of the mohair that Susan has asked about.
The specialty fabrics are Cashmere, and the B*berry raincoating that is turning up everywhere.

first off, I'll talk about specialty animal hair fibers.
Cashmere is the fiber of the Kashmir goat, and comes from Asia, Tibet, India, and parts of China. It's expensive because the annual production is relatively small and demand is fairly high. There are varying qualities of cashmere available now, determined by staple fiber length and fineness of the fiber. The fine short fibers are 1-3.5" long, the coarser longer fibers vary from 2-5". It's also known to be warm relative to the weight of the fabric.

Mohair is the fiber of the Angora Goat. The fibers are fine and silky and measure 4"-6" or 9"-12" depending upon how often the goats are sheared. Mohair is "remarkably resistant to abrasion and wear" Paraphrased from Textile Science by MarjoryL.Joseph c. 1977.

Claire Schaeffer, in her Sew Any Fabric Quick Reference Guide recommends "Simple designs, minimal seaming, topsitching." She cautions to avoid intricate details when working with 100% animal hair fabrics.
She recommends lightweight silk as underlining to add structure for coats and jackets. I'll add a recommendation of the fine cotton batiste or silk/cotton batiste (see Farmhouse Fabrics silk cotton batiste blend)

When pressing both cashmere and mohair it's really important to test press scraps first and use a press cloth, and press on the wrong side only.
Again, Claire Schaeffer cautions that Mohair is easily damaged by steaming and improper pressing. Covering the ironing surface with a towel or piece of wool will help to protect the right side surface from crushing.

Adele Margolis, in The Complete Book of Tailoring Suggests designs with simple lines and few pattern pieces for Mohair fabrics, and underlining with china silk or silk organza in a matching color.

Both cashmere and mohair fabrics should be treated as Nap fabrics and a one-way layout should be used.
This information applies also to fabrics that are wool/animal hair blends. ie wool/cashmere or wool/mohair blends.

The two lines the 464 pg The Vogue Sewing Book devotes to instructions on "sewing with luxury fabrics" says "Don't skimp on the inner fabrics: interfacings, underlinings, and lining fabrics should match your fashion fabric's quality. And please, make a test muslin--the time spent is well worth the effort".

Bottom line, if you're planning on sewing with an animal hair fiber, other than wool, plan on underlining, and plan on using some extra care in sewing and handling.
All of my knowledge and experience, and everything I've been able to look up in my various source references, all make me feel confident in saying that you can make buttonholes, collars, and pockets in lovely coats using animal hair fabrics, including mohair.

Susan, I think the design lines of the jacket that you're looking at would be fine with a mohair fabric. I would avoid designs with gathers, pleats, and any other fussy details. But Vogue 2884 is a loosely fitting jacket with just a few pieces, so I really think you'll be fine.

KayY said...Threads #91 (November 2000) has an article on sewing with mohair which recommends caution in lining and underlining mohair because of the sag factor. It suggests quilting layers together à la Chanel, or letting the lining hang free at the hem. Sandra Betzina is the author.