Saturday, July 12, 2008

Tany’s muslin

So without further ado, here is my muslin. I’m sorry for being late, but adding to the excess of work at the office I also had a neck injury this week.

Ok, so what did I change? First the sleeve; you’ll notice that my left sleeve looks better than the right one; the armhole looked right but I thought that there was too much sleeve cap ease and also excess fabric on the front side of the cap so I made a 0.5cm deep fold perpendicular to the grain line (it takes out 2cm ease of the sleeve cap) and tapered the posterior side of the cap removing the extra fabric there.

The right sleeve cap (it doesn’t seem too wrong in this picture but it felt wrong with the coat on):

The left sleeve cap (after my alterations):

Another thing that I am considering is changing the pocket placement… But I’m not sure yet and I’ll give it some thought first:

As you see in the picture, the pocket opening is on the side seam… I think the pockets would “feel” better if placed on a seam further to the front… But this may alter the balance, because of the horizontal seam you see there:

I also pinched a little excess fabric on the CB, so I think I will add a CB seam too:

One of the things to be determined in the muslin stage is the roll line of the collar; this will be necessary to know when padstitching the undercollar:

Overall, I’m happy with the fit but I’m no fitting expert since I only sew to myself and never had to do major fitting alterations so I’m happy to get your input on this!


Ann Made Studio said...

Tany, your muslin looks great.I agree, the sleeve does look nicer with the alteration.
You say you are not a fitting expert but trust me "all" the garments you make, simple and detailed, fit you to perfection. To accomplish this over and over....makes you a fitting expert:)

ejvc said...

I really like it and in particular I think it doesn't swing to the front or back when you stand straight - just looks like a nice, well-fitting coat. Thanks for posting.

Do you think the ease you removed from the sleeve cap will need to be put back in for a heavier fabric or in your experience won't it make a difference?

Tany said...

Ann, you are so sweet! Thank you!

Classicalreader: Thank you! The removing of the ease depends on the fabric used, personal taste and style intended. On this coat, if I was using wool (which can be shrunk to fit the armhole), I don't think I'd make this adjustment, or at least not this much ease would be removed (but I'd take off the little excess on the front cap, just by deepening the curve of the cap there). I am writing a post detailing how I did this particular adjustment on my sleeve and addressing other matter: the collar seems a little loose in the first picture of me wearing the coat!