Here we go again - Sleeves had diagonal wrinkles - after checking Els' instructions, I unpicked the sleeves and moved the shoulder dot forward about 1/2"
The wrinkles seem worse than before, should I have just left the sleeves alone or done something other than moving the shoulder dot forward ? And any ideas what to do now ?
The pics show tonight's change first - compared against the same view(s) from my last post.
Back...
Right side...
Left Side
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Claire S. - V8346, what am I doing wrong ?
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4 comments:
I think that your front is rising due to a flat back. I am not sure about your shoulder point, but the sleeve needs to rotate perhaps back to eliminate the wrinkle.
Nancy, originally (on the pics on the right in each set) I had small wrinkles. Matching these up against the diagrams that Els posted about, I need to move the shoulder dot forward to get rid of them. As we can see, this made it worse.
I don't know if my back is flat but I just read an article yesterday that straight posture may make Front Waist ride up - my physical therapist & I have been working on my posture now for 2 years - maybe it's finally paying off.
On my blog it was suggested that the muslin may show the wrinkles because it's lightweight - would the weight of the coating wool take out some wrinkles since it's heavier ?
I think I definitely need to rotate the sleeves back again, maybe a little wrinkle is acceptable ?
Claire,
I'd like to reassure you that sleeves are the one part of jacket/coat/shirt sewing that challenges many of us.
What I'd do in your case (what I do routinely) is: stitch (baste) the bottom of the sleeve, from the back sleeve seam, to almost the same level in the front. At that point, you'll have all the rest to ease into the armceye (sp?!). It also looks to me as though you have just a bit too much width across the back, about 1-2" below the yoke. I'd pinch that out, and set the sleeve a little closer to back centre. Also, without moving the bottom of the sleeve, I'd move the top backwards, perhaps to where it was meant to be in the first place on the pattern. If your sleeve bottom is where you like it (ie, where it's meant to be) the rest should just naturally fit into what's left of the armceye, if you spread it out symmetrically.
Don't despair. Sleeves ARE tricky. I spend more time on setting in sleeves than everything else combined in a jacket! Basting, pinning, basting, chopping, re-shirring & rebasting.... but in the end it's all worth it.
Thanks Digs - In this set of pics I finally noticed the extra bunching across the back at the lower part of the armhole, as you did.
I'm positive the bottom part of the sleeve is in exactly the right spot (1st thing in this whole excercise that I've been sure of - I'm making progress !)
So this weekend I'm going to merge 2 suggestions, yours and Linda's - I picked up a piece of cheap wool yesterday - it's pretty close to the drape and weight of my flannel.
I'm going to reset the sleeve using your suggestions for placement with a wool sleeve (per Linda's suggestions) and see what happens - hopefully the weight of the wool will give me a better result - wish me luck.
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