Sunday, October 12, 2008

Tany's coat: some progress made

During this weekend I was able to make some progress on my coat.

At this point I’ve cut all the velvet pieces, underlined them with the thin knit fusible that Paco sent me, thread traced them all, cut the canvas interfacing and the lining. I’ve initiated the construction by making the in-seam pockets on the side seams (I’ve decided to maintain the original pocket placement). The pockets are located in the seam that joins the upper side-front and upper side-back (both these panels are to be stitched to the bottom side panel next). You can see the upper lateral here:


The pocket bag is made of a lining part and a velvet part. The lining is stitched to the front panel and the velvet to the back (don’t forget to reinforce the pocket opening) and the finished pocket bag should be set towards the front. You can also observe that I’ve topstitched the front opening, to avoid the lining peeking out accidentally.

Here’s the wrong side:

And another detail of the seam treatment: you can see that I zigzagged the SAs but if you look carefully, you’ll see that the SAs are also catch stitched, so they remain flat and open:

Next I will join these panels to the bottom piece of the side panel. There’s yet a lot to do before attaching and padstitching the canvas to the coat: the bound buttonholes and the waist embellishment (satin tape); I must join all the vertical seams of the coat so I can apply the satin tape to the waist as a continuous tape. The shoulder seams will be left unstitched until the front interfacing and back shield are set in place.

Happy Sewing everybody!

1 comment:

Tany said...

Marji asked an interesting question (at Couture et Tricot) and I thought I should share it here too:

Marji:"You mention using fusible in the velvet coat. I was not aware that you could use fusbiles on that particular fabric. Do you have a special technique or can you fuse normally?"

My answer:"For fusing velvet (I'm just fusing the underlining and the reinforcements: fusible tape, in this case), I use a velvet cover (a large remnant) on top of my ironing board so the pile is set against pile while applying pressure with the hot iron. The fusible interfacing that I'm using as underlining was sent to me by Paco and it works like a charm."