Monday, September 29, 2008

Guide: Pockets

  • Inseam Pockets
  • Welt Pockets
  • Patch Pockets
There isn't much I can do to improve on this chapter on tailored pockets at the Vintage Sewing site, mostly having to do with various types of welt pockets, and a bit on patch pockets.

There are also countless welt pocket tutorials around the net. If you've written one you'd like to have included here, please post a link in the comments, and we'll make sure it gets into the body of this post.

A note about inseam pockets - you'll want to fuse the fold line using a woven straight-grain fusible tape or strip of interfacing

Patch Pockets:
My preferred method of attaching patch pockets

  1. Assemble the lined pocket
  2. Cut lining just a hair smaller so that it is recessed behind the fashion fabric layer
  3. Topstitch the pocket if topstitching is desired
  4. Hand baste the pocket in place on the front of the jacket
  5. Flip the jacket front over, to the inside
  6. Beginning at the top corner, using doubled waxed thread, stitch pocket to coat/jacket, as shown.
  7. At the end of the pocket (after working all the way around, for this quick sample I just did a few stitches) reverse direction of stitches and retrace outside edge of the pocket, crossing the initial stitching line.
  8. Back at the top, reinforce with extra stitches both vertical and horizontal.
  9. The stitches will be invisible on the right side; however if while working your stitches you flip to the right side and pull the pocket away from the stitching line to see what is happening, this is what it will look like.
It's my opinion that patch pockets that are topstitched onto a coat front tend to look a bit as if they're "stuck on." I know this is more hand stitching, but it creates a much neater pocket application.

As a parting shot, an interesting link: An article by David Page Coffin on tailoring a mens coat from Threads

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