Lindsay T: Progress made, plus a question

I made considerable progress on my coat this weekend. The body is all done, having been pad-stitched, catch-stitched and machine-stitched; the sleeves are assembled and ready to be attached. Marji, you'd be pleased to know I'm actually getting into making this coat.

I also spent some time thinking about what extra touches I want to incorporate, as the OOP Vogue pattern I'm using is basically a blank slate. I photocopied the pattern illustration and then sketched various pocket and trim ideas. For now I've added two flaps at the high waist and I like the definition it gives my rectangle figure. Fabulous buttons will be a must, of course. You can see one of my sketch ideas at left.

Question: The pattern calls for inseam side pockets. I tried this with my coat and then ripped them out because it made me look thicker through the middle, and I want this coat to have a slim fit. I like the idea, though, of pockets as a place to put my gloves when I'm not wearing my coat. Is a patch pocket inside on the lining a bad idea? Any thoughts?

Guide: Pockets

• Inseam Pockets
• Welt Pockets
• Patch Pockets

There isn't much I can do to improve on this chapter on tailored pockets at the Vintage Sewing site, mostly having to do with various types of welt pockets, and a bit on patch pockets.

There are also countless welt pocket tutorials around the net. If you've written one you'd like to have included here, please post a link in the comments, and we'll make sure it gets into the body of this post.

A note about inseam pockets - you'll want to fuse the fold line using a woven straight-grain fusible tape or strip of interfacing


Patch Pockets:
My preferred method of attaching patch pockets

1. Assemble the lined pocket
2. Cut lining just a hair smaller so that it is recessed behind the fashion fabric layer
3. Topstitch the pocket if topstitching is desired
4. Hand baste the pocket in place on the front of the jacket
   
5. 
6. Flip the jacket front over, to the inside
7. Beginning at the top corner, using doubled waxed thread, stitch pocket to coat/jacket, as shown.
   
8. At the end of the pocket (after working all the way around, for this quick sample I just did a few stitches) reverse direction of stitches and retrace outside edge of the pocket, crossing the initial stitching line.
   
9. Back at the top, reinforce with extra stitches both vertical and horizontal.
   
10. The stitches will be invisible on the right side; however if while working your stitches you flip to the right side and pull the pocket away from the stitching line to see what is happening, this is what it will look like.

It's my opinion that patch pockets that are topstitched onto a coat front tend to look a bit as if they're "stuck on." I know this is more hand stitching, but it creates a much neater pocket application.

As a parting shot, an interesting link: An article by David Page Coffin on tailoring a mens coat from Threads