Suggestion from Marji:
If I understand the direction for erect back that both Digs and NancyK have been recommending, it will look either like this, with a wedge taken out of the back, or it will be an actual scoop at the neck edge.
The advantage of the wedge is that it doesn't affect the neckline and hence the collar
The advantage of the scoop is that you don't risk changing any other grain lines that are already good and perpendicular.
I've also drawn the narrow back tuck which will bring that shoulder in too.
Again, if you tuck it you doesn't affect the armscye and therefore the sleeve insertion. - Realize that a change on the back at the princess seam line will necessitate a corresponding change on the front.
I'd suggest doing all this with pins and trying on as pin fit, before marking up the muslin or stitching it.
Note: I'm editing right in this post only to keep all this together. I've emailed Rosemary that I'm doing this.
_______________________Update #1
Thanks Marji for the suggestions. I have a piece of fleece in place of shoulder pads now, probably still not the right size. I think the fit is generally better, I am not sure about the back, there is an awful lot of room over my backside. click for closeups.
I tried to add this to my other photos but had nothing but trouble. Thank goodness for this sew along, I never would have made a muslin otherwise and my coat would not have fit.
__________________Initial presentation
Here I am with the first try of the muslin, I did a straight 18. Hoping that I would have the correct shoulder width. I am going to have to let it out in the waist and bust. My husband says the waistline is half inch too low in the back. I 
didn't have my waistline seam in the front aligned properly either.
Somehow, I don't have shoulder pads in my stash and so I just added a knitted wrist warmer to the shoulders, it would be about the right thickness for a shoulder pad. I always feel uncomfortable through the neck and sleeves and with my body shape I am beginning to see that I need to regularly make adjustments.
Marji said...
Hi Rosemary - your shoulder pads are on the way. It looks as if the makeshift pad you used is a bit thicker than the actual shoulder pad.
May I suggest letting out the seams you just mentioned, and marking your buttonholes and button placement on the muslin, then trying it on again and "buttoning" it with pins?
Right now it's pulling so much that it's hard to see what else might be going on. Because you want 6" of ease through the hip in a coat, and this is at about 0 ease right now through the hip, if you let out each of your princess seams and your side seams 1/2"
-tapering to nothing above the waist but below the armscye on the back princess seam
tapering to nothing right under the full part of the curve on the front princess seam, and
-tapering to 1/4" at the underarm on the side seams, then try it on again, then the horizontal grainlines will be easier to read.
It looks as if it's sitting where it should at your back neck and your shoulder.
7 comments:
From this point of view the fit across the front looks fairly good.
Do you have anyone at all that you can rope into being a fitting buddy?
The back def needs to come back in, although before you cut out your coat that's not a really critical issue. Some of the vertical seam fitting will happen when working with the fashion fabric and doing the first fitting. It's critical that there be enough, but not really critical if there is too much.
but what I'm really seeing as areas of concern right now:
-is the neckline seam riding on your neck? It looks , from the pics, as if it might be climbing up the back of your neck. It should rest in the back right at the top of your spine, and in front just below or at the base of your throat. At the shoulder seam the neckline seamline should rest right at the junction of your neck/shoulder.
-where does the shoulder seam end at the armscye? Is it at the end of your shoulder? Beyond? How far beyond? It looks as if it might be too wide. Have you tried putting in a sleeve? That will really tell.
Do you have one of those really big basting stitches on your machine? baste a sleeve in with really long stitches so that it comes apart exceedingly easily.
I'd like to have you make sure your neck edge is indeed resting on your neck, then have you put the collar on.
I'll give it another go tomorrow, too late now for me to do anything.
Rosemary, I had a though about the excess in the back. Have you tried sitting in the muslin? Is that excess needed to sit down? Unfortunately I needed that excess for "sitting spread" if you know what I mean.
You look like you have an erect back, as do I. I take in a pleat that across the upper back goes down to nothing at the side seam in the armhole area. This brings the neck down. The second part of this adjustment is that the back is also too wide, just where you have this problem. Doing a narrow back in this area or sewing a deeper armhole seam here works. But it is easier to see how much when the sleeves are in. You then straighten the center back seam.
You should also make sure that you have a button at your bust point, which you don't now.
Since the front seems to fit well, there is a different adjustment to narrow the back without narrowing the shoulder point. You can take in a dart like the horizontal one with the narrowest point at the shoulder and the bottom. A vertical fisheye dart in other words.
You have to redraw the cb seam. It becomes a straight line pretty much, which is perfect if you have an erect back. In effect there is too much room vertically in an erect back, so it comes up higher at the neck. The grain line gets redrawn lining up with the line below the change.
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