Wednesday, June 25, 2008
2 comments:
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Nancy K said...
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I think that besides the high round back, you need a small forward shoulder alteration too.
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June 25, 2008 at 1:50 PM
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Linda said...
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I think once the high round back is finished, that the seam will fall foward. I wanted to say something about the waist in the back being lower than the waist in the front, but I just couldn't figure out why. Now I think I see the problem. Once she fixes the high round back, I think that some of the fit will move forward and correct itself. I would certainly do the high round back before I do any other adjustments, just to see what happens to everything else.
The necklace and the sweater both make excellent markers on where the adjustment might need to reach. I was debating it when you put out this entry. And being able to do it on a muslin is great. I once did a too high round neck adjustment on a flat pattern only to have the neckline crawl up my neck by a good 1/2" because I took too deep an adjustment.
off to cook dinner for 10 tonight and get to the graduation ceremony on time. I just had to stop by and see what progress is being made on the coat sewalong. -
June 25, 2008 at 1:55 PM
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- It is important that the shoulder seam be at the top of the shoulder, so that the sleeve hangs properly.
Once you've done these recommended adjustments, put both sleeves in, and put one collar on (you don't need to put on the under collar too) and see if it fits better.After you get the waist taken care of, and open out the side seam a bit through the waist area, you need to address the back neck. Do you usually make a high round back adjustment to your patterns?
It's accomplished by slicing your pattern horizontally from CB to armscye a couple of inches below the existing neckline, lifting the neck the amount you need (I'm looking here and thinking you might need as much as 1.25" although that's just a guess) and then trueing up your CB seamline.
Because you're already in the muslin, I'd draw the lines on the muslin, slice it open, insert a wedge of fabric and stitch it in.
Then check to see if the shoulder seam lies on top of your shoulder. It is common that a forward shoulder adjustment accompanies an adjustment for a high round neck, but not always.
Your shoulder seam should originate at the join of your neck and shoulder, just under the back of your ear, and lie on the top of your shoulder, terminating at the bone at the end of your shoulder. If you have trouble determining where that bone is, put your index finger on where you think it is while your arm is at rest, then start lifting the arm - you'll be able to feel the bone then. See next post. You do need it.