I am sewing Vogue 7978 which is a popular choice since four other members are sewing the same pattern. This pattern has the shoulder princess line and two-piece sleeve which were recommended by Marji. I do like the classic lines of this pattern and am sure I will sew it again once it is fitted. I have chosen view D.
Muslin without shoulder pads
Muslin with shoulder pads
What becomes obvious in the side pictures is that the side seam it tilting forward which I think is related to the folds in the lower back. I also think I need a forward shoulder adjustment. But I am looking for some expert advice before I make any adjustments and that is the main reason why I joined this sew along. What I have learned from taking pictures of my muslin is that the pictures really are a better indication of what needs to be adjusted rather than just relying on my eye and a mirror. I will definitely use this tool in the future. What also showed up in the photos is that I need to adjust my pictures on the wall.
Friday, June 27, 2008
Marilyn B's 1st Muslin
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4 comments:
LOL at your last line.
Hi Marilyn since Marji is not around I will share my thoughts about your muslin coat.
My suggestion is to widen/enlarge the upper bodice since this is now very fitted, while the lower part of the coat has enough wearing and design ease. Probably a size 12 will be the best to use for the upper part.
The side seams are sliding forwards due to a too long pattern back length for your body and/ or an erect back posture.
You can remove the extra length by taking in the amount from ½ way the armhole at the back part from armhole to armhole. Just pin the excess fabric in a tuck and mark with a pen so when you remove the pins you know how much you need to remove from the pattern.
You can eyeball the amount but you can also measure the amount by measuring from the center front hemline towards the ground (of course with shoes on) and measure the length from the back center hemline towards the floor and distract those amounts what is left is the amount you need to remove.
Shortening the back length will remove the drape lines at the back and the side seams to hang even.
If this alteration or adjustment is done you can try on the coat again to see if the new shorter back armhole is fine or needs some extra length. If it is fine than you need to adjust the sleeve so it will fit again in the new armhole. If it is too short you can deepen the back armhole at armpit.
The shoulder seam is at the right spot but you need a bit more shoulder stitch length because you will wear a jacket underneath in winter, and the fit of a jacket is more fitted than an overcoat.
I like Els's evaluation better than my idea, so I deleted my comment. That way we all won't get confused on what is the best way to handle a fitting issue. Thank you Els.
Els, I do an erect back adjustment, but until you pointed it out I didn't realize how else it impacts on the fit in the front of the coat! Thanks for the really good explanation.
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