Here's the muslin for my "little coral cashmere fall coat", McCall's 5247. Front, side, back.
I adjusted the seaming slightly to make it a little less like a sack of potatos: added 4 mm in the bust and hips at the front side seams and below the waist at the side seams, and decreased at the waistline at front side and back seams. It looks a little loose over a tee, but fills out well when I put on a long sweatshirt. The shoulder pads are placed at the sleeve seam line, and the neck folded down & pinned. The photos show me that I should've pressed the front side seams better (and that I need a new undergarment).
The muslin waistline falls about 1.5 cm below my own, so I'll pleat that up when cutting the fabric. I haven't quite decided on the final length, but I may cut it 5 cm longer to keep the length as shown here - I like coats to cover my knees, and I think the longer skirt will make it more feminine.
Should I deepen the back neck a little to allowthe coat to rotate forward?
My only issue with this pattern is that I believe the side front seams should fall closer to the bust point, and they are quite far to the side. I found this beautiful coat based on the same pattern, and it confirms the front & back side seam placement. So, I'd love some comments on "what if" I was to shift that seaming (both front & back, since they should match at the shoulder) towards the centre by about 1/2".
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Digs: McCall's 5247 muslin
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7 comments:
I agree with you about the princess seam. It needs to come over your bust. Also, shoulder pads should line up with the edge of the sas, not the seam. Third, I'd like to see a picture with your arms down at your sides to see what happens to the wrinkles at the shoulder.
Ok, looking again at your photos, I think that the upper back is too big. Maybe even the whole bodice, but it is hard to tell with your arms out at the sides like that.
Third look and reread. Yes, I think that your neckline seam is standing away from the body, but when you hold your arms up, that will shift the neck. I don't know what you mean about rotating the coat forward but taking it in at cb isn't the cure for your neck problem. Neck problems are usually from a neck that extends forward or from a rounded upper back. Your shoulder seam does not look off. The other coat you linked to looks like the waist is supposed to be lower and less fitted at the waist.
All of these posts sound a bit abrupt. Sorry about that.
I've been studying your photos, and, while I admit that it is v hard to completely diagnose fitting issues from 3 static photos, I have to say that I'm not seeing a need for scooping the neck and letting the coat fall forward. In truth, I think that would create far more problems than it would solve.
Your grain lines and horizontal lines are nice and parallel/perpendicular to the ground. If you shift forward, you'll be dipping the front neckline even more, which I think could stand to come up a bit closer to your throat as it is, and you'd be throwing off your grainlines.
If I were to diagnose the fit from the comfort of my chair in front of my computer, I'd say you need to take in the princess seams just a bit above the bust point, althougth that can wait for fitting with the actual fashion fabric.
I'd like to see the collar and sleeves on. Will the collar sit closer to your neck?
Maybe, if you have an opportunity to get together with a fitting partner any fitting issues will be more apparent in person and easily diagnosed.
And yes, What is with all these waistlines being so low?
I'd not be too worried about raising yours, since there is no waist seam, and the shaping seems to follow your figure nicely. (with the exception of that upper bust princess seam).
Re the coat you referred to, Cennetta is a participant here. I'm sure she'll confirm, she redrafted the pattern and changed the placement of the princess seams to emulate a RTW coat.
The princess seams on your muslin look close to where they're drafted based upon the McCalls draft.
Whether to move them is really up to you, as a style decision.
Thank you, Nancy & Marji for your insights. I shall put in the sleeves and collar, and repost. In the meantime, I tweaked the body by lowering the front by the shoulder seam allowance (~1 cm). This improved the hang of the front tremendously - the front skirt now hangs straight, and the bottom hem is horizontal. Turns out I need more front length (as well as width, already done) due to my D cup assets. I will shift the princess seams toward the centre, and shorten the waistline a bit, but I think this can be done on the actual fabric, as these are straight-line adjustments.
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