Rosemary: B4665 Muslin done

This was taken a couple of weeks ago and I think I have the fit fairly good now. I am wearing a different sweater underneath, so the muslin is a little looser. It looks like I should adjust my skirt as well.
Since the last group of pictures, I have taken a tuck in the upper back, sleeve and front, this resulted in the neckline fitting better. Then I added an inch to the bodice length at the waist.
I like the length of the sleeves, I will add extra to the length of the coat. I like the current length and not the suggested hem line. I lowered the bust point but had to give that several tries as there was not enough seam allowance to just do a reshaping of the area. I think I still have to work on the curve a bit more. I have to more the buttons as well.

Rosemary: B4665

I've been quiet mostly pondering my adjustments to my muslin. I am getting quite happy with the fit. I have done the tuck above the armseye, voila the neck fits. This has left me thinking and pondering about most of my necklines, gaping v necks and bunching of extra fabric over my bust and of course why sometimes I can't move my arms! It is quite the learning curve, I can only compare it to therapy when you learn so much about oneself.
That said, I also added extra to drop the waistline, that put the hipline below my crotch. I still have the adjustments in the bust area and the shoulder width and I just took the collar out of the envelope. The upper collar seems to have the extra for the turn of cloth but I am still just looking at it. The lower collar is cut on the bias and seems to be longer in length and it also says stretch along the collar edge. Another ponder is in order.

Marji, I am not sure of my skills yet to recommend fitting advice to anyone yet. Looking forward to the next part of the process, but I must admit I have periods of being overwhelmed. (not quite the right word)

I'll post pictures soon.

Rosemary B4665 Redo / and suggested alteration

Suggestion from Marji:
If I understand the direction for erect back that both Digs and NancyK have been recommending, it will look either like this, with a wedge taken out of the back, or it will be an actual scoop at the neck edge.
The advantage of the wedge is that it doesn't affect the neckline and hence the collar
The advantage of the scoop is that you don't risk changing any other grain lines that are already good and perpendicular.
I've also drawn the narrow back tuck which will bring that shoulder in too.
Again, if you tuck it you doesn't affect the armscye and therefore the sleeve insertion. - Realize that a change on the back at the princess seam line will necessitate a corresponding change on the front.
I'd suggest doing all this with pins and trying on as pin fit, before marking up the muslin or stitching it.

Note: I'm editing right in this post only to keep all this together. I've emailed Rosemary that I'm doing this.

_______________________Update #1


Thanks Marji for the suggestions. I have a piece of fleece in place of shoulder pads now, probably still not the right size. I think the fit is generally better, I am not sure about the back, there is an awful lot of room over my backside. click for closeups.
I tried to add this to my other photos but had nothing but trouble. Thank goodness for this sew along, I never would have made a muslin otherwise and my coat would not have fit.

__________________Initial presentation
Here I am with the first try of the muslin, I did a straight 18. Hoping that I would have the correct shoulder width. I am going to have to let it out in the waist and bust. My husband says the waistline is half inch too low in the back. I didn't have my waistline seam in the front aligned properly either.
Somehow, I don't have shoulder pads in my stash and so I just added a knitted wrist warmer to the shoulders, it would be about the right thickness for a shoulder pad. I always feel uncomfortable through the neck and sleeves and with my body shape I am beginning to see that I need to regularly make adjustments.





























Marji said...

Hi Rosemary - your shoulder pads are on the way. It looks as if the makeshift pad you used is a bit thicker than the actual shoulder pad.
May I suggest letting out the seams you just mentioned, and marking your buttonholes and button placement on the muslin, then trying it on again and "buttoning" it with pins?
Right now it's pulling so much that it's hard to see what else might be going on. Because you want 6" of ease through the hip in a coat, and this is at about 0 ease right now through the hip, if you let out each of your princess seams and your side seams 1/2"
-tapering to nothing above the waist but below the armscye on the back princess seam
tapering to nothing right under the full part of the curve on the front princess seam, and
-tapering to 1/4" at the underarm on the side seams, then try it on again, then the horizontal grainlines will be easier to read.
It looks as if it's sitting where it should at your back neck and your shoulder.

June 22, 2008 8:16 AM