For reference, here's the Marfy pattern I'm using.
(Working hard to get Marji's opinion before she leaves us to our own devices.)
I inserted the sleeves and the collar. (I love the collar!) Then I decided to narrow the back. I figured the pattern ease with their ideal measurements vs the ease with my measurements and found that I have more ease all around. I narrowed the CB seam by 1" at the bust, angling to 1 3/4" at the waist and hip. I also narrowed the side back seams by a little to make up the total ease difference. It turns out that I like the original better, I think. With the suit jacket on, the coat is too tight across the hips IMO, and although it's all right with just a blouse on, I like the drape of the non-changed silhouette better. So unless I hear differently, I think I'll make it up as is. I think in the cashmere, the back is going to drape much better than the muslin, and that will make a difference.
I worry a bit about the CF off-graining being too much, but again, you can't tell until you get it in the real fabric, and Roberta Carr says you can always cut it off with no ill effects, so that will be the first thing I check.
I do agree with the idea of a soft chest pad, although the sleeves and collar have helped a lot. I may put a little more padding on the right shoulder, at least in the back.
Here are many photos.
The first set is with No Changes and a Blouse underneath.
Back Narrowed and a Blouse underneath
Back Narrowed and a Suit Jacket underneath
Once again, all photos larger here.
Original post below. Should I delete this part?
There are horizontal lines at the waist and hip on the muslin although they're showing only faintly. I have the shoulder pads pushed out 1/2" out from the shoulder seam, which is marked also. The front edge is turned under and the hem is turned up. I have a suit jacket on under the muslin in the top 3 photos, and I realize that the collar is making those weird vertical lines, although originally I thought they were a hollow-chest thing. I have a low right shoulder, so I have a little extra pad (maybe 1/4") on the right. 
All Photos Larger Here
I'm going to construct the sleeves but won't sew them in yet.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Liana's Muslin - Fitting Part 2
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7 comments:
Wow Liana, that doesn't appear to be a narrow coat at all, does it?
Does it feel too big in the back? I feel as if I want to pinch darts in the back at the waistline, and then take in the C seam below the waist, just a bit.
Also, it looks fine in the photo with the suit under it but I wonder, if you plan on wearing it with more dresses than suits, if you want to use a bit of a soft pad to keep the chest from collapsing?
At first glance only, on the photos with the pink top underneath, I'd think you needed more of an FBA, but it's clear from the other photos that's not the issue.
What does it feel like to you, as you move in it?
I'd like to see it with the sleeves in. That may take care of some of the collapsing chest too.
It doesn't feel big in the back, and I didn't think it looked big in the mirror, but as we all know, the photos tell the tale, and I was very surprised to see the large fold at CB. I don't want to get it too narrow, but I may try taking in the CB seam some and see how that works. I'm going to compare the ease vs their ideal size and see how far off I am. Shouldn't be too far I wouldn't think. Maybe I'm going to get my swing coat after all? :)
From the back I see your left shoulder as higher than your right - there are little wrinkles pointing that way on the back view when you've taken it in. I think if that were corrected (don't ask me how, I don't know!!!) then I would like the narrowed version better. Also are the side seams swinging forward?
Elizabeth
I agree with Elizabeth, I think your right shoulder is a teensy bit lower than your left, had never even considered this until I started reading men's tailoring books getting ready to make Jeremy's coat.
What that book said about it: "It would appear that that logical pattern correction would be a deeper, slanting seam at the shoulder. Doing this could make the arm-hole smaller, which, in turn, could necessitate making the sleeve smaller. It has to do with the rib cage area. The shoulder is low because the body is contracting itself somewhere between the armhole and the waist."
I don't know if that is helpful, since it is from a men's tailoring book, but their illustrations look a lot like what is happening to the back of your coat. Email me at mloyet at gmail dot com and I will send you a pdf of the page.
I agree with you, the original cut is much nicer than the narrowed one. With the sleeves in, it already has a beautiful soft fall line right from the shoulders on down. I wouldn't change it.
I like this one too.
Def liking the unaltered version once the sleeves are in. I think it gives you exactly what you were looking for , for that cashmere.
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