These pictures were taken after I let out the seams from the waist down on the side, back, and front & back princess seams. I think there may some some extra fullness now that I will get rid of. For starters I will take the front princess seams back in and try it on again. If it still has extra, then I will take in the back princess seams. Or would it be better to adjust the side seams first?
I do have shoulder pads in and the arm syce seems ok. I am unsure if the arm syce starts in the right place - is it too far out?
I now have the waist marked - it is about 1" high. I think I should lengthen it.
Also, I need to make a forward shoulder adjustment.
Comments please? More pictures on my blog.
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6/28/08 - Now that I have it overlapped and pinned correctly, it fits much better :) This is on over a jacket. I see pulling on the front and back above the hips so I think the side seams need to be let out below the waist. I did not put shoulder pads in but I think I have room. Any comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated before I add the sleeves.
I have on a jacket underneath and I like the fit but then I usually like things larger than they should be. I cut a 16 due to the flat measurements and needing more ease than the pattern has built in to wear over jackets, etc. I usually cut a 14 for a top. Should I go down a size? I can tell this needs some work but don't really know where to start.
This is Simplicity 4084.
I am making View A front and View C back.
Tuesday, June 24, 2008
6/30 update Trench - Susan
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4 comments:
You are making the double breasted coat and this doesn't look like it overlaps enough. Are the cf's lined up? The line drawing shows the front edge almost over as far as the princess seam.
You are right - that's what happens after a long day and not paying attention! I don't have it pinned correctly. I will take these pictures down tonight, pin it correctly and start again. I knew something was way off but I was in a hurry to get pictures done before it was too dark outside, fix supper, etc. Thanks Nancy. I'm guessing the fit will look much better when it is overlapped correctly.
The best way to test the fit of a jacket or coat is to pin the whole center front length towards the hem even if the buttons do not extend all that way. Also the pockets should be basted as if they are closed.
That way you better can see where you need to do some adjustments like in your case widen at the hipline, you can do this by adding some extra wide at the side seams or add the amount at princess and side seams. For the back part you can also add some wide at the center back seam line .
For example if your muslin coat needs to be 6 inches wider you can add 1/4 inch at all the seams like front princes, side front and princes , side back, side princes and back princes seams because you work with a half pattern 6 x1/4 inch is 3 inches which makes on a whole pattern 6 inches more ease.
Remember that your fabric is not one layer but also gets some interfacing and a layer of lining, which adds up in the thickness of the definite coat.
The waistline seems a bit too high but if you are satisfied with the waist as it is you can leave it this way. Because the coat does not have a waist seam line it does not bother.
Thanks Els, I will let it out some, baste the pocket closed, and pin all the way down. I'll put up new pictures later today.
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