Step 5, updated Sunday PM.
I think I've got it! I made tiny changes to the fisheye dart and tuck in side back panel, and the left side seam is now vertical and the hem reasonably level. Thanks, Marji, for email consultation!
I will make a second muslin to add the pleats to the back.
Tip about drawing on photos: I use MS Office Picture Manager, which does not allow you to draw lines or write on pictures. Marji suggested Paint.net, which is a free download. It is very easy to download and use.
STEP 4.
Marji was kind enough to send detailed comments that elaborated on her comments in a private email. She suggested that I take in the shoulder princess seams above the bust level, front and back, to improve the fit in the shoulders. The pictures below show the back as it evolved through the day!
LEFT
- correction to fish-eye dart across back at waist (now it is even on both sides)
- tiny tuck (1/8 inch) in right side panel
- 1/4 inch taken out of entire sleeve at back seam
- 1/4 inch taken out of sleeve to elbow, tapering to nothing at wrist
- a little more than 1/4 inch taken out of side panels in princess seams from bust level to shoulder
- one layer of needle punched felt added to right shoulder pad
The left side seam still tilts forward, and the front hem still hikes up, but the muslin is coming along!
STEP 3.
Last night I took in the fish eye dart mentioned in step 2, starting with almost 1/2 at center back and tapering to nothing at the side seam. When I tried on the muslin this morning, I decided not to worry about how it fits on the shoulders, because I don't want to over-fit this. Here are the pictures.
Generally, I like what this adjustment did to the shape of the coat. It seems to be closer to the silhouette of the Marfy design I am trying to copy.The right side seam is now almost perfectly vertical, but the left side seam still tilts towards the front. I copied and pasted these pictures into Word and drew lines on them, and can tell from that that my right shoulder is low and left hip is high, so that lines across my back now tilt downward from left to right. Hmm. Will have to adjust that fisheye dart.
STEP 2.
Marji recommended I add one-half inch wearing ease on the front and back princess seams, tapering to nothing just above the bust. These pictures show that change. When I put this on without the suit, it feels enormous, but now there is room to move within the coat.
And with sleeves:
I have a couple of concerns about this muslin.
- The front hem tips upward and the side seam tilts forward. This is more noticeable on the right side. I think this is caused by my posture and my flat seat. I will try to even this out by taking a fish eye dart across the center back, from side seam to side seam.
- The shoulders do not fit evenly. I can't tell if this is because the muslin is seated unevenly over the suit jacket. I do have one shoulder lower than the other, and often put in a little extra shoulder pad and/or trim away 1/4 inch from the top of the armscye, starting at the notches.
Below is the first muslin for Burda 11/2006 #129. I am wearing it over a wool crepe suit. Design modifications will include inseam pockets rather than the patch pockets, no belt, and back pleats as in Marfy F1022. I cut this with a 2" hem allowance, which has been turned up and pinned.
Design illustrations:
9 comments:
Mary, your proportions and your fit are very nice. Your vertical lines are vertical and your horizontal lines are all parallel to the ground - which is great.
The only reservation that I have is that it appears to be very close fitting on top of the suit you have on.
If it were me, I'd let it out in the princess seams below the bust, through the waist and over the hip all the way to the hem. I'd start at the hem, by opening the seams up 1/2" tapering right to nothing above the bust, same in the back. That'll give you 4" additional ease through the waist and hip. If you feel it's too much ease, you can always take some of it out when doing your fitting in the wool.
You want room for your fabric and your lining, as well as room to move in it.
If you make this change now, when you add the pleats in the back, it's all style and no functional ease.
Marji,
I agree with you. There is JUST enough room to button smoothly over the suit, and I thought there was enough pull just under the bust to indicate it was too snug through there. And I do NOT want the pleats to pull apart across my rear! Did you notice the horizontal wrinkle across the back on the right side? Sometimes I put just a little extra in the shoulder pad on that side. I wonder if the extra ease over the waist and hip will take care of that.
Add the ease and try it on again.
In any case, this is only the muslin fitting stage. The change you're talking about, after you add wearing ease, is so minor that it can be taken care of in the first fitting stage in the wool.
Hi Mary
I was thinking that you dont need to change the back as it seems to fit well. Perhaps you need to add length to the centre front, maybe 2cm. You dont need to add anything to the length of the side seam.
Mary J
From the pic's, I think that it can come back in just a bit on the upper back princess seams.
If it still feels huge in the construction stage with the coating fabric, fit it a bit more closely, but I'd cut the initial coat with seam allowances planning on this amount of ease, since you're planning on wearing it over a suit.
I see what you mean about the shoulder, and you may want to include a needlepunch fleece pad on the one side under your shoulder pad - again, that'll work out during construction.
It'a apparent from the side view pictures how the horizontal line is dipping in back and lifting in front, and where you have a lot of excess at the back waist area. I'd be interested to see if this all corrects itself when you pin in that fisheye dart. I think you're right on in your analysis.
The other area of concern is that your sleeves look big. It may just be the fact that it's muslin over your suit instead of lined coating fabric.
At this point, Just try pinning a small amount out of the back sleeve seam and see what happens.
Marji,
Thanks for the second look. That fisheye dart was REALLY off on one side. I took that in so that both sides match. I agree about the sleeves, too. I am so used to sleeves being large on me, that I don't always see it anymore. My arms are very thin and there is 2+ inches more in the sleeve circumference than required for wearing ease over my body measurements. I will take in the back seam and the back shoulder princess seams before posting more pics.
Wow - what a difference! The end result looks great. You both should be pleased :)
Thanks Susan! I really enjoyed this -- it was like working a puzzle.
Mary, Your final muslin looks great. I wanted to say that I like the detail that the fish eye dart gave to the back. I know it is not a permanent seam, but it has such a slimming look. I am going to keep this in mind for another coat...someday.
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