Hi All,
I'm back. DH and I have been traveling since last Thursday, and I've been on the net for less than 1/2 hour per day since then. I'm catching up on posts and will be making my muslin tomorrow and posting about the process.
I've only had time to skim the posts…
Thank you Kay for the detailed info re the collar. I'd love to have you re-post this, or get permission from you to post this again when we get to the point of cutting, and the assembly of the collar. You've got great illustrations and explanations there. You're just ahead of me, by a lot! (At the muslin fitting stage this isn't really critical, although I know some of you are thinking ahead through the whole project.)
Some of the ways any of the pattern companies (not just Burda) have you cut your pieces are not optimal. We'll be creating a separate piece and cutting the under-collar on the bias, regardless of what your pattern calls for. And we'll be looking at the methods of construction so that your lapels turn correctly and look right.
I'll list the elements to check tomorrow night when I write the muslin fitting post, but my suggestions are going to include checking the fit prior to putting your sleeves in:
- Check the shoulder seam. Does it begin under the back of your ear at the neck edge and terminate at your shoulder point, or does it fall to the back? The way patterns are drafted lately it is very common to find that it falls to the back. This is why I've suggested cutting a 2" seam allowance at the shoulder—you may need to move the seam forward.
- Is there at least 1" room in there for the height of a shoulder pad and seam allowances and lining?
- Does your side seam fall vertically straight from the under-arm to hem along the leg, or does it swing to the back or front?
- Does your CF match and button well, going over the intended clothes, and fall straight, or does it "V" in any direction?
I'm going to suggest either cutting off the seam allowances for your collar and lapels and other design features, or pressing them under, so that you can see the size in relation to your body and decide if you like it or want to adjust it. I'm tall and have broad shoulders, and will sometimes adjust the design lines on a collar so that it doesn't look elf size. The same proportions that work on me won't work on either Shannon or Summerset (Forgive me Shannon and Summerset for citing you as examples). Where I'm the jolly green giant, they can check in as the petite Tinkerbelle. (There is a picture of Summerset and me on my blog, standing together—I'm not kidding about the contrast). It is important that your coat look like it's proportioned for YOU!
We'll also be checking pocket placement at the muslin stage.
The allowances I gave in the previous post—those are suggested. You will want to try your muslin on, over your typical winter garb, and determine if there is too much or not enough ease, for the way you like to wear your clothes.
This list is off the top of my head after dealing with flooding this AM up on the shoreline of Lake Michigan and then driving 7 hours, then getting in my swim (per the docs instructions), then grocery shopping.
I promise that tomorrow night I'll have a muslin fitting post up that you can all question or comment on, and use for reference.
Oh, bonus: I got to talk to Els on the phone this afternoon!! The sleeve heads for all the non-Euro folks are on their way here. I've also got all the other materials on the way, and will put together all the packages as soon as everything is in my hot little hands.
5 comments:
The jacket I am making V8306, does not call for shoulder pads. This may be because the collar is so large. I always use shoulder pads in a jacket or coat and pad the right one for a low shoulder. I am wondering if I should add shoulder pads or at least one on the low shoulder.
Second, I am making Simplicity 4084 view C with some design changes in my black Burberry raincoat fabric. I will change the armhole princess to a shoulder princess front and back, also adding a cb pleat like the one on Marfy 1037 and I am experimenting with the size and shape of the front shields. I may shorten the back shield. It seems a bit large to me.
Nancy, I'm thinking that trying on the muslin will answer your questions about the shoulder pads. If you're looking for opinions, if you post your pics here with and without a pad inserted into the muslin, for comparison, I'm sure that many eyes will give you the feedback to help you make your decision.
Same with the shield on the trench.
You left enough seam allowance on the shoulder to have room to add pads?
I haven't cut it yet, but I will cut a large sas.
I still haven't even cut out my pattern. It is too damn hot here! I don't have ac in the house, only the bedrooms. Supposed to break tonight and then I will get started. I am going to work on the wool jacket first until you get a chance to post the pattern change I need help with. I certainly have loads of work!
You are so right about finding correct proportion. The size of a collar is vital to the overall look of a coat/jacket. I have had collars so large that they actually extend from my neck over my shoulder, as opposed to landing close to my collar bone - talk about drowning in fabric!! It looked ludicrous.
Also, it should be mentioned that sometimes patterns are meant to have some exaggerated design element (like the huge collar on V8465 or V8307). This doesn't mean that because it's designed that way that it will automatically look good on you. I think that people often get sucked in by a pattern illustration or see a garment made up by another person and assume that they can pull off this look too. For instance, I love the work of Tany, Erica B and Marji, but I know that no matter how amazing a garment looks on them, I would never be able to pull it off. Just some food for thought..
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