Hi everyone - sorry about the accidental publishing of a blank post for those of you who saw that... I'm not sure what happened.
I'm a bit behind the curve because I haven't been able to find just what I wanted. I wanted a traditional coat so that I could take advantage of all the expertise here, but then I couldn't find a pattern I wanted and wasn't sure I could afford the super cashmere of my dreams etc etc.
So I'm pretty sure now that I've hit on the solution. I saw Johanna Lu's version of the coat from Vogue 2988 and loved it - so much that I went and bought the pattern several months ago. Anyway I realise that I have enough of a lovely navy wool melton to make it, which as far as I can tell is perfect for the pattern, whose suggested fabrics are "lightweight tweed, lightweight fleece and lightweight crepe" but calls for full interfacing. JL made hers out of a felted wool without interfacing and I thought I would do the same. I need lining and notions but otherwise I am good to go. First stop, muslin! I am very happy to have made my decision.
For those more experienced than I: I've never sewed with wool melton before. I did wash it in the machine on the wool setting and line dry it - it's ultra-beautiful. In my "Fabric Savvy" book by Betzina, it says the following under seam finish: "Butt edges together over 1 1/2 inch wide wool jersey strip. Machine-sew a featherstitch. This joins the layers of melton while attaching to the strip. Trim down one side of the wool jersey strip, and wrap the other around and hand-stitch." So - do you think I should butt-join the seams as this suggests? I've never done it before but I'm game. Second, as it's lined I wouldn't think I would have to trim, wrap, and stitch the wool jersey strip but I don't know - does it have to do with making the seam stronger? Also, Betzina suggests silk thread, I am concerned that it won't be strong enough (I've never sewn with silk thread before). Finally, she suggests eliminating hem allowances and binding the hem with wool jersey or leather - I can't imagine that working on a lined jacket. Any suggestions?
EDIT: I notice in Johanna's review for PR that the coat doesn't have pockets! Major problem in a winter coat! I think I'd like to add welt pockets, since she says the seams aren't suitable for side seam pockets. I think I have maybe made one set of welt pockets about 20 years ago... does anyone know why it wouldn't be a good idea other than my lack of skill?
Elizabeth
Friday, June 13, 2008
EJVC's coat plans
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3 comments:
Elizabeth, I'm really confused about the melton you're using.
Since the pattern calls for "lightweight" fabrics, and you're stating that the fabric you have is perfect for it, I'm wondering if what you have is a true melton.
The reason Sandra Betzina suggests a seam abutment treatment is that a true melton is so thick that it can be very bulky at the seams.
Before talking about seam treatments, I think it would be good to establish how heavy your fabric is.
Do you have an up close photo you could post?
LauraLo has a double faced coating wool that is so heavy that an abutted seam treatment might be a great idea, and if you have a big thick melton like that, it would be a good seam treatment, but I'm not certain that would be a great pattern for it.
It occurs to me that it may just be a regional difference in terminology - you're in the UK right?
Hi Marji,
The melton is thick - a felted wool. I'd say it's 1.5 - 2 mm thick. I think it's just like what you're thinking of. So I was thinking they suggested interfacing throughout because the light-weight fabrics wouldn't stand up to being a coat. I mean, they suggest fleece, which is never thinner than melton in my experience. Johanna said she used "fairly stable felted wool jersey." However now you've said that, perhaps the fabric isn't suitable? In which case, boo hoo, back to looking for a pattern or a fabric.
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