Saturday, June 14, 2008

Lisa: First muslin photos UPDATED 6/16/08


Hi,
Guess I'll have a go at this....here is the front and back of my muslin (V8346). I put on a long sleeve shirt and a sweatshirt to try this fitting (it was only 93 F or 33 C that day). First things: SBA, let out the waist, and raise the bust point. You were right Marji, I only needed to add about 1/2 " (1.25 cm) from the shoulder to the bust. However, I had already traced off the pattern with my length adjustments and figured it would be an easy tuck on the pattern if it didn't work. Next, the back view. I see some wrinkles at the armholes. Could be a couple of things. One is that I didn't trim to the seam lines of the armholes. The sweatshirt has a deep armscye and could be pulling the muslin. Another thing that could be causing the wrinkles is the lack of shoulder pads. If it is something else I am not sure what could be the problem. Don't you love the shorts and the pink backdrop? My daughter took the back view photo in her room.

You can't see them in the photos, but I marked the grainlines, bust, and waist lines. The bust lines are off, but I think I didn't get them marked correctly on the pattern. The waist hits me just right and I am hoping I can make it just a little longer. Will have to see what happens when I lay out the pattern.














Update

Here are 3 photos of me trying to follow Marji's guidelines for muslins.
I have sewn around the armscyes and front edges so you can see where those are hanging out. I drew the bust and waist lines in black ink. I drew the grainlines in red. And that took some doing to figure how out to put those 2 different colors on the same photo!!

Changes:
1. I have pressed my seams and trimmed the sleeve allowance to 5/8ths inch.
2. I have inserted shoulder pads.
3. raised the bust
point by about 1/2 inch
4. released the waist 1 3/4 inc
hes.



I still have drag lines in the back and my grainlines on the side are off. Seeing how I don't need a FBA (ha, ha) , what else would be pulling my grainlines up in the front or down in the back? I am getting out my sewing books to try to figure this one out.

:)




6 comments:

Marji said...

Not bad looking Lisa, for the first try on.
Can I make some suggestions?
1. press your seam allowances and then mark your armscye seam in pencil or pen, dark enough that we can see it, on the right side.
Then try it on again, right side out - the seam allowances actually distract enough that it's good to try your muslin on right side out.
And ditch the sweatshirt, unless you'll be wearing your coat over a sweatshirt.
If this coat is meant to go over a blazer, put it on, otherwise the turtleneck will probably suffice.
2. Trim your armsyce seam allowances to 5/8" and then clip them right to the stitching line under the arm - I'm assuming that you've stitched your neck edge and armscye - which acts as staystitching.
Actually, you probably haven't or we'd be able to see your armscye.
3. Put it on again and cajole your photographer into taking pics again.
I think, but I really can't tell here, that your muslin is too wide in the shoulders.
And yes, some of those lines you're seeing will be taken up with a shoulder pad- do you have any on hand at all that you can use for fitting?

Lisa said...

Okey dokey!

:)
I will do all the above and try to get "the photographer" to take them again.

Can I get into my post and put in the new photos? I want to take down the ones that aren't "right."

Nancy K said...

I agree with Marji, I think that it is too wide in the shoulders. Some of the front wrinkles look like too much length there too, but it needs shoulder pads to really tell. The other thing is have you marked the center fronts for accurate pinning? The other problem with sewing right sides together, but trying on inside out, is that most of us are not perfectly symetrical. Most women will have one lower shoulder from carrying a handbag on one shoulder.

Linda said...

Lisa,
If you put in new photos, which you can do, could you please indicate with a special paragraph stated "Update" so that we know. I am looking at this and not knowing if I am looking at old photos or new. I like the idea of updating an original posting rather than having several. But I want to make sure we all know which version of a fitting we are viewing. Thanks!

BTW, if you want to put in a new photo, all you have to do is go the posts section and then click on edit for your entry. Then you delete the old photo and add new ones. If you have any questions, email me at coatsewalong"at"gmail"dot"com. Thanks, LindaF

Lisa said...

Hi Linda,
I will try to make sure I put in "update" when I edit the post.

These are the first photos. Last night I made shoulder pads and made changes to the muslin. I will get my photographer to take photos this morning.

Digs said...

Re: updated side photo -

It looks to me that the muslin is sitting quite far back on your shoulders, due to your very nice & straight back. You should probably open the shoulder seams and drop the front until your waist line is horizontal and the side grain hangs vertically. You'll then have to add that extra to the front shoulder. It will probably also result in some adjustment to the bust point needing to be done.

I also have a straight back and similar issues, but I typically drop the back neckline to allow the back to move upward & forward a bit. Adjusting the front seems like a wiser approach.