Edit - Claire S. - V8346, sleeves ?

Edit - July 11 - I'm still stuck.

The actual problem - Neither sleeve feels tight around my arm, only pulling at the underarm.

Gry - suggested to change the sleeve balance and rotate the sleeves to the back

EJVC (ClassicalReader) - understood that I added the width on the left sleeve to the under part of the sleeve and suggested that I split the sleeve both horizontally and vertically on the upper sleeve to get added width.

1) I didn't specify clearly - I did add the 1-1/2" width to the upper sleeve...just that the amount was 1-1/2" at the level of the underarm (sorry, don't remember what the name of that part of the sleeve is called), more at the top of the sleeve cap and tapering to nothing at the cuff. you can see a loooong 'V' of stitching on the pic showing my full left side.

2) EJVC's solution will add depth to the armhole - I think it is already too low since, when I lift my arms, the pull is right at the armpit. It seems as though you have one thing or the other, either the armhole is high enough to move your arm or it's big enough to wear a heavy sweater, but not both. Is there a happy medium?

3) I think rotating the sleeves back will take away the vertical wrinkles but will that loosen up the pull when I lift my arms ?

4) To rotate the sleeves, do I take them completely out and reset them ? or leave the bottom in place and shift the upper part of the sleeve cap to the rear.

Thanks for the comments so far...this part seems so much more complicated than the body was.


original post - Jul 4
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Let's start with the positive, shall we ? After all the suggestions on my first muslin, and Marji's pics to show exactly how to fix some of 'em - THANKS Marji & everyone - I managed to,



1) raise the back neck 1-1/4";
2) let out the side seams and the front & back princess seams 1/4", to get an added waist measurement of 3";
3) lower bust point 1-1/4"
4) raise the front waist 1" at CF , raise the waistline at the sides 1-1/2", and the back waist 1-1/2" - I have no idea if this is the proper way to make the waist level or not.

I didn't change the angle of the shoulder seams because I thought there is room for the shoulder pads.
Also did not move the shoulder seams forward, I think they're in the right place now.


Please let me know if the shoulder seams do need adjusting after all.



This felt pretty good, til I attempted the sleeves ! - maybe I should make a vest ?


Now- I am about to prove exactly how much of a newbie I am at this - feel free to let me know just how badly I messed up these sleeves, 'cos for sure they're not right.

V8346 has a one piece sleeve - the only 2-pc sleeve pattern I have is a McCalls (M5247), yup a different brand so I was prepared for it not to work.


I traced out the McCalls sleeve, size 16, measured the seamline against the seamline of the V8346 sleeve - both the same measurement - different shapes though.

I measured the actual armhole of the muslin, it is the same as the Vogue sleeve measurement - unless I made a drastic mistake somewhere, there is NO ease in this sleeve cap. Since my McCalls measurement was the same, there is no ease in this one either.


The McCalls sleeve without any changes, is my right sleeve. It is pretty tight, I can't lift my arm up very much.

I read everything I could find about fitting sleeves - sleeve cap ease, making bicep larger, changing armsyce depth - but since I didn't know exactly what the problem was, I winged it.


I split the left sleeve down from the top of the sleeve to the hem and spread it to add 1-1/2" right where the underarm is...which, by the way, seems really low except you do need room for sweaters, right...it can't be too high up, no ? And I'm going to need room for all the layers of the real material once I get to that point. It's still too tight to raise my arm, but now the sleeve looks bulky.



So, here are the pictures


Before Sleeves - first one shows the final tweak of the waistline and was taken after the other 3.







After Sleeves - I rec'd Marji's package in the mail today, so the shoulder pads are sitting in place.

Right sleeve - McCalls 5247 no adjustments.
Left sleeve - McCalls 5247, split vertically and added 1-1/2" at underarm level












This is as much as I can raise my arms - how's that for a pose ?



I see wrinkles/pulls that I think mean things are too tight (at the back & the bust), but the only things that actually feel tight are the sleeves.


Sorry, I just saw how long this post is but I don't know what to do next and am really stuck.