Thursday, July 10, 2008

Elizabeth: I have created...a monster!!

Just wanted to give a short post about my progress and why there has been no muslin from me as yet. Well, I have been transforming and reworking and altering and puzzling over my pattern so as to make something like a copy of the Pringle coat I posted some time ago - double breasted, raglan sleeves, with a waist seam, princess seams on the front, a back box pleat on the skirt, not to mention concealed buttons, self trim, and huge statement pockets.

I have completed many of the alterations to the pattern, based on BWOF 10/07. First, I traced the pattern. It's an ankle-length coat and I wanted thigh-length, so I shortened at the hem by 38 cm. Then I marked the waistlines and cut apart the bodice and skirt of the coat. Then I got out the size 10 vintage Valentino pattern Marji spotted for me earlier, matched up the existing two piece sleeve for the BWOF pattern, compared it, and traced the Valentino raglan sleeve, extending the sides because of my larger arms (I wear a pattern size 16). I didn't lengthen the arms because I normally have to shorten them so size 10 length may be good for me. I then traced off the matching raglan shoulder seams on the back and front bodices with the valentino as a reference. Then I had to alter the traced raglan sleeve to account for the different collar on the BWOF pattern, which was difficult as the Valentino is single-breasted and the collar comes to the centre, whereas the BWOF is double-breasted and there is a straight panel across the front. Ack. Mind bending to transfer to the raglan sleeve, but I *think* I've done it. Then I altered the back skirt to add the pleat.

Areas I still haven't faced: should I cut the front facing all in one piece rather than dividing it at the waist? How will the lining pattern be affected - should I divide it at the waist as well (I think so, but maybe it would be better not to...)? Should I cut the back with it's CB pleat on a fold or in two? The raglan sleeves from the Valentino are one-piece and cut on the bias - will they work? Will I be able to sew together and fit this Creation? And of course the pocket pieces and trim remain to be drafted. And I have lots of concerns sewing with heavy melton.

I would *not* take on this project without you all, so thanks for the support. Next stop, muslin!

Elizabeth

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