I wasn't sure if I should start a new post on this but I have several questions about what I should do with my fabric. As you know, it's 100% cashmere. I've read all the pertinent info you have posted on fabric, luxury fabrics, underlining, fabric prep, etc., and I still have questions.
1. I was planning to have it pre-shrunk at the cleaner's. I was thinking of just having them steam press it rather than clean it, although they are a CO2 cleaner which might be gentler anyway. But, all the texts mention rather strongly that steam can damage cashmere. What do you suggest? I'm not one who routinely sends clothing to the dry cleaners. I brush, air and shake them, and only if there's actual dirt would I send this to the cleaners. So I'm a little worried about taking my gorgeous fabric to them now to see if it will come back unharmed. Am I worried about nothing here?
2. It's extremely soft and drapey, and definitely needs underlining. I have tried lots of fabrics with it using your over-the-arm test and also holding both fabrics together and holding them up to myself in front of a mirror, and silk broadcloth and silk organza (which I happened to have on hand) seem to be way too lightweight. The cashmere is soft enough that if I drape it over my hand, I can see my knuckles, etc. right through it. This continues to be the case with organza and broadcloth, although 2 layers of broadcloth will soften the knuckle-effect a bit. I don't have enough silk broadcloth to do a double layer, and I think a double layer of anything is just asking for trouble anyway. I tried Pam's non-fusible interfacing under it, and I think that's what I am leaning toward. It gives it a tiny bit of body, yet it still falls in beautiful folds. Do you think I will be okay with this plan, or do you have any other ideas? This fabric is so soft by itself and I don't want this coat to look like a limp rag, or to show outlines of the shoulderpads, etc. I don't think I want flannel, as I don't believe I need the extra warmth. I'm planning on lining with silk charmeuse.
Friday, July 11, 2008
Liana: Cashmere Questions
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7 comments:
Liana,
I have "Fabric Savvy" by Betzina checked out of my local library. To preshrink, she recommends the steam iron 1/2 inch away or at the cleaners. Speaking as a knitter, I don't think water will *damage* cashmere so much as it might shrink or full it - which is what you're trying to do here, so I think you should be OK.
She suggests underlining with cotton batiste - I don't know if you have tried that. You would then, according to her, fuse any interfacing to the cotton lining.
She recommends pressing on wool with a self-fabric press cloth on the right side.
Hope this is of some use to you.
Regards,
EJVC
Thanks EJVC. I've read Betzina, Schaeffer, Marji's posts and several other sources, and I am surprised to find how cautious they all are about cashmere fabric. I hadn't thought it would be much different than wool, really. I'm not sure I trust the cleaners about the steam, but maybe I should. I've seen what can happen to mohair, and I'm worried, perhaps unnecessarily. I don't want to full this fabric though.
Well, um, Liana... I'm sure I have way less experience than you in the overall sewing department. Still. As far as preshrinking goes, I did the quasi-London Shrink approach to my 100% cashmere coating. I wrapped the cashcloth in wet cotton sheeting, with liberal plain water spraying all over while wrapping. After about a week of the stuff resting/drying on the floor, I unfolded it and steamed the heck out of it. Cashmere is wool after all...OK, it's goat wool, but still...: just wool. I'm sure it can handle a bit of steaming, mine did anyhow. I'm using silk twill for underlining, but that's as far as it goes. This is my first attempt at making a coat, so I'm willing to accept a partial fiasco. However, with the (bareky behind me) hindsight of my "wearable muslin", I think cashmere cloth with silk lining is an unbeatable combo.
Bottom line: go ahead, shrink that cloth!
Liana, I've read the same, and I guess I'm a little more careful with steam while making my garment, but I sent my 100% cashmere piece to my trusted independent cleaner for staam pressing and it came back in beautiful shape.
As far as the underlining, as you know, I draped many fabrics and surprised the heck out of myself choosing the silk broadcloth.
My criteria: I wanted to preserve the hand of the cashmere I had, but give it the strength so that it didn't bag all out of shape by choosing a tightly woven but light as air drapeable fabric. It sounds as if you're wanting to beef yours up a bit?
my knuckle test consists of pressing into a piece of the fabric to see if it deforms and doesn't recover its initial shape. I don't really know if I can "see" my knuckle through the fabric while draping it over my knuckle even with the underlining - I think I should go look.
Remember that your charmeuse is also going to add body to your coat too. Have you included the charmeuse into the equation when you're draping with the underlining to see if you're achieving the weight and opacity that you desire? Just some thoughts.
I will plan to take the fabric to be steam pressed. I tried my draping tests again after reading your reply Marji, and adding the charmeuse to the mix using the broadcloth or organza doesn't really make any difference at all. I guess I do want to beef it up a little, although it's still very light so I don't think I'm doing too much. Hope not anyway. :)
Liana, did you considered using a flexible light weight hymo ? I have no idea if this is available in the US , if not you can sent me an email for any help.
els, I have a line on a source for a sample of what I think you're talking about and I'm going to see how it looks. Thanks for the hint!
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