I will be making Vogue 2873 in a size 10 so, I cut out and sewed this muslin up exactly as the pattern is, resisting the urge to make my usual petite adjustments at the waist and on the sleeves. I am wearing the muslin over a red sweater, which is typical of the sweaters I'd be wearing the coat over in the winter. I did trim the seam allowance off the of the front edge, lapel and collar. I didn't stitch and turn under the seam allowance at the armscye (sorry Marji!). First, the line drawing, if you're not familiar with this pattern (it's the Michael Kors one, with the model's version done in purple wool):
Here's my version, without sleeves; front, back, side:
I also tried one of the shoulder pads in the armhole to see if it would fit:
I then made up a sleeve, inserted it and the shoulder pad and ended up with these results:
Overall, it isn't too, too bad. I know I will need to make the following adjustments, at the very least:
- Shorten the length between shoulder and waist by about 2" to get the waist in the right place. I like the original length, so I will add the length back at the hem to keep the hem where it is.
- Shorten the sleeves by about 1", maybe a little more. I intend to take some of this amount out of the sleeves and some out of the cuff. The reason for this is that the cuffs seam a bit deep and out of proportion for my overall size. I'm a petite, and I have to watch the proportions.
- Make the collar and lapel a bit smaller, again due to my size and overall proportions.
- Possible back armhole/shoulder slope adjustment. There is a wrinkle back there that was worse after I put in the sleeve. I've seen the same wrinkle on other muslins that I've made.
I'll be working on this a little bit over the next week and by the end of next week, should have all the pattern adjustments made. I'll also try to get my fabric pretreated, and buy and treat the underlining and lining, too.
3 comments:
It looks like you've got a good handle on what you need to do. I'm just curious why you decided not to make your petite alterations before making the muslin?
LOL, on the clipping the armscye - I only added that because when it's not clipped it can give some wrinkles that might read as drag lines, that aren't - they're just wrinkles. But I trust that you know what you're looking at ;)
I agree totally that you want to scale back the lapel a bit. And I like the way you've thought through the pockets. I'm going to muslin that same jacket, to make in my red cashmere.
Happy to see you're able to fit this in, and Happy pseudo-retirement/sabatical to you.
Marji - to answer your question on the petite adjustments, it is a better visual for others to see a petite adjustment and to be able to compare "before" and "after" pictures. With the length being right, it is sometimes tempting to not do the short waist adjustment and live with it. Although it involves extra steps, putting the waist in the right place and adding the length back is the correct way to deal with it. I also knew that you were doing the same jacket - and thought if you posted some pictures of an "out of the envelope" muslin, it would help others to see how this jacket can be made to work for people either petite or tall. Thanks - for the well wishes - I am already enjoying the time off!
Thank You Summerset! Excellent observations, and I know that you're absolutely right, seeing the muslin and then reading the steps to correct fitting issues, then seeing the corrections...it's all enlightening.
I appreciate your doing it this way then.
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