Mary OK's Eggplant Coat

Photo on right: Courtesy The McCall Pattern Company. http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/F1022.htm?tab=marfy_patterns/outerwear&page=2


Although I have written about the red trench with python trim, this coat will be my main project for this sew-along.

The fabric is a lightweight eggplant wool melton from Gorgeous Fabrics that drapes beautifully. I think it is a good choice for the Marfy design above, F1022, because it is heavy enough to fall in nice folds but not so heavy that the pleats would be bulky. I don't want to wait for the Marfy pattern to get here from Italy, so I found a Burda pattern (Nov. 2006, style 129, a petite pattern) that I think will work with modifications.


Technical Drawing Courtesy Hubert Burda Media. http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Archives/129_Coat_130_Dress_technical_drawing/ 1270777-1463237-1426110-1426117-1426158-1429119.html

The coat has built in pocket flaps, which I eliminated by combining the two side front pieces. I won't use the belt. The back has a center seam and shoulder princess seams, to which I will add extensions for the pleats. I am not sure whether I want to change the single-breasted opening to double-breasted, but I really love the closure on the Marfy. I almost never wear double-breasted styles because I think they make me look wide.

My plan is to test the fit of the Burda in a muslin according to the original style, then test the pleats in a second muslin. I've traced the pattern and am in the process of tracing the pattern pieces onto muslin, with 1" vertical seam allowances, etc. Flat pattern measurements indicated the need to add 1/2" at the bust and shorten the sleeves by one inch, which are typical adjustments for me.