I have a second muslin finished and I stopped. For several reasons. One of them being I am not sure that I want such a low opening on this coat. The collar is huge, so I was thinking of folding out some of the depth to in both the collar and the separate lapel area so that I can raise the opening. The coat is actually lower and wider than the drawing appears. Though this could be that the coating will take up more room.
The second question: The coat doesn't call for shoulder pads, which is kind of understandable with the monster collar. However, I have a low shoulder and I either need to take up that shoulder and or do a combination of adding a small shoulder pad and taking up the shoulder seam. SB says if you lower your shoulder you also need to reduce the outside edge of the collar. Without a shoulder pad the fold out in the collar would be 1", double the amount I lowered the shoulder, which without a pad is 1/2" front and back. Her book is the only place that I have seen this mentioned. The left shoulder could benefit from a small pad too. This totally eliminates any diagonal wrinkling pointing to my shoulders. Advice please?
Monday, October 13, 2008
Nancy K: Not so sure about this coat.
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3 comments:
Nancy,
To address your direct question, I see nothing wrong with raising your natural dropped shoulder line with a shoulder pad to match the pattern line. In fact, I'd see that as a much easier solution than trying to change the pattern & collar design.
As for the coat opening line: to reduce the opening, extend the vertical center line from below upwards a few cm, then grade into the pattern collar extension; include your change onto the facing as well. Also, if you feel the collar is really much too large, do you feel able to reduce its outer perimeter by a bit, 0.5-1" or 1-2 cm? This will have no effect on the collar/lapel attachment or the collar to neckline attachment, so it should really be simple: think of it as changing the high water line in the bathtub ;-)
As an aside, when I was in Edinburgh last fall, I saw lots of beautiful coats with huge collars being worn. I was very positively impressed by all these fashion-forward ladies. As (Opus?... Doonsbury?...) once said, dare to be bold, Ms. XXXX.....
I played with the muslin and reduced the outside of the collar and lapel by 1". This is about right for my very narrow shoulders, I think. But, I am thinking on it before I cut. I made it a bit looser as it was a little to fitted to wear with sweaters underneath. It is sitting on my dress form so that I can stare at it and make a decision.
Thanks Diggs. I decided, one to raise the cf by about 1 1/2" and how to reduce the collar and lapel. It fits beautifully and on to the fabric, finally. It looks a lot like a coat in this month's Harpers Bazaar. I now have to decide if I will add surface pockets or just keep the in seam pockets that are drafted.
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