Miscellaneous Construction Notes

Back intefacing stitched to underlining.
You should have this piece in your jacket regardless of your collar style.
If your jacket is collarless (LindsayT) you'll want to tape the seamline at the neck edge, same as taping line along lapel that Paco illustrated, Except you'll clip the tape along the curve to allow it to spread. Or you may use a fusible bias tape and fuse your neckline stay tape on.
If you have the Singer Tailoring book there's a good pic in there that shows this.

From my tailoring class notes, c 1980
Stitch undercollar to jacket
Pin undercollar side up, stitch from one dot across to other stitching TO dot, not through it, stitch jacket side up.
Now clip to dot (not into dot), Turn undercollar around corner, pin again, dot to dot, matching dotes carefully, and stitch, backstitching on both ends.
stitch upper collar to facing.
in same manner.

To attach Facing to Jacket
Set jacket on top of facing making raw edges even. Match all markings, Pin, then hand baste right on seamline.
Don't ease too much facing to Jacket, or else facing will roll out to jacket. If jacket side is larger ease it to facing below waistline. Above waistline facing should be larger than jacket.
When stitching slightly stretch vertical front from waist to lapel corner.
At point, stitch to "one stitch away" from corner, with needle down turn work in machine and take 2 diagonal stitches across corner, then with needle down turn again and stitch remainder of lapel, to dot but not through dot.
Pin collar to undercollar from CB to corner, baste, stitch same as for lapel, cutting diagonal at corner.
Trim interfacing from undercollar and neck edge seam allowance
Trim sm allowances to 1/4", Grading so that longer seam allowance is on the public side. This will mean that at the end of your roll line along the front of the jacket you will switch the grading. Above that point the sm allowance on the facing side will be the longest, below that point the sm allowance on the jacket side will be the longest.





Method for hemming.
I hem my sleeves, then hand stitch the lining at the hem, before setting the sleeves in to the jacket.



Stitch hem allowance to wigan.