Thursday, September 11, 2008

A word about progress - Marji

Marji, do you think you could dash off a post that offers words of encouragement to us novices out there? Speaking for myself, I am feeling a little overwhelmed. Some of this stuff just feels so advanced. It's not that the instructions aren't clear or that I don't understand what to do.... It just feels like I've never sewn anything of this magnitude before and I'm concerned I'm going to make some fatal error. For example, I don't usually have a fear of cutting fabric, but I keep putting off cutting out my coat.

This is an excerpt from an email I just received.

So I'm wanting to conduct an informal survey -

  • where are you in your coat construction?
  • Are you stuck? Do you feel ready to move along?
The muslin fitting stage extended beyond where I intended (my fault entirely for not keeping up with the timeline), and I think we lost some momentum.
I know several here have continued on and we've been treated to pictures of their progress.
Thank you to Gry, Kay and Jenny. Your coats are coming along fabulously. I appreciate the pictures and progress reports you've put up.

If you've finished your muslin but are reluctant to move ahead I'd like to offer these words of encouragement:
If you take it all step by step, and just do the next one, it'll all come together and soon you'll find it's just about done. Most of you are working with wool, and wool is wonderful to work with - and Very forgiving.
If your muslin fits or mostly fits and you're happy with it, then get it laid out and post a picture if you want someone else to check it before you cut.
As far as the underlining or interlining goes - which is the following step, just allot time. It's time consuming to lay the underlining over the fabric, hand stitch it together, and then thread trace all your lines. Not hard, just time consuming.
I put on an audible book and just have at it. Fortunately, I have a table that is the right height.
Break up the session by sitting down in between pieces to make some buttonhole samples.

My own progress
I've decided, working on my burgundy wool/cashmere jacket, that bound buttonholes are not appropriate for this quasi-military style jacket that has epaulets/belt/sleeve tabs and is double breasted. So I was able to move right on to the interfacing for the front. My buttonholes will be made at the end of construction.

Because I'm not confident of my ability to get wonderfully perfect straight lines doing my padstitching, since I don't do it every week, I draw lines in pencil on my hair canvas. This is commonly accepted practice.
My pattern didn't have a roll line.
I neglected to mark it before (remember my admonition to mark the roll line before taking your muslin apart? That's because I didn't! So I chose to draw the roll line from the large dot.
Last night, while watching Project Runway I got the first lapel padstitched. Then I draped it on my front, with the collar piece, holding all together, and realized that I should have chosen the straight mark as opposed to the round one. So, I added 3 lines. If you click on the picture to make it larger you'll see the merge of the two angles. I could have been really AR and taken it all apart, but I didn't. It's fabric. It'll roll.

Remember the dart that I cut out when I made the pattern? To stitch it I just butted the lines together and made a multiple stitch zigzag. Acceptable practice is to also butt the edges together and stitch over a piece of seam binding/hem tape.


If you've been hesitant to get started, in the words a certain athletic wear manuf: Just Do It!
If you have questions or concerns, just come on back in here and ask.

12 comments:

Meg said...

As for me, my muslin is done but I'm nervous about cutting the coat fabric and lining out, and therefore keep postponing this step. I'm at the "overwhelmed" stage. I know, I know, jump in the pool like Michael Phelps and "just do it!"

Claire S. said...

I've got a question, Marji - and I'm sure I'm just missing something.

In everything I've read about attaching the interfacing & underlining & wool together, it says to stitch them all together with those long diagonal-like stitches taking just a couple threads of the wool.

In Paco's tutorial, picture #4 shows the opposite - the long basting stitches are shown on the wool side.

What I haven't seen anywhere, is an instruction to take these stitches OUT. Am I supposed to just know when to do this, or are they meant stay in the coat (in the case of just tiny stitches showing on the wool side) ?

Paco's final picture has no basting showing, so at some point they came out, for sure.

I know, I'm WAY ahead of myself - but I do intend to catch up :-)

Claire S. said...

oops, too quick on the 'publish' button...I think I'm happy with my muslin (I need to tweak the bunching of the left sleeve, as I did for the right sleeve and even out the front waist and hemline). Then mark notches on the muslin and cut it out.

For one, I'm glad the muslin process went on for so long, or I'd be much further behind and 'really' stressing.

Linda said...

Marji, I have not progressed further because it has been too hot to work with wool and I have had other priorities. Plus (hanging my head in shame) I have yet to buy my interfacing. But I will be internet shopping today. It is getting noticeably chillier here, so now I am stoked work with my wool. I am one of those that like that the timeline slipped oh so little. It actually worked out better for me.

Mary OK said...

I got my muslin where I wanted it, cut it apart, and cut out the fabric over the Labor Day weekend. This was pure pleasure! I need to draft a front facing piece to account for turn of cloth, and expect to look at Tany's post for help with that. I am pondering what to use for interfacing. I have two kinds of hair canvas and two kinds of fusible weft. One piece of hair canvas is from my mom's stash -- probably at least 20 years old -- and I worry that it may not hold up. Another issue is the pain in my hand and arm from my tenosynovitis. It hurts almost as much to use the iron as it does to do hand sewing. What to do, what to do?

MarilynB said...

I'm working on two coats and both are cut out and marked. I'm using all fusibles on one coat and flannel underlining and sew-in hair canvas on the other. Since I had not seen any activity on this blog, I went ahead and started sewing the coat with the sew-in interfacing and is it nearly done. I have taken a few pictures, so I will try to post my work.

fabricluver (Susan) said...

Claire - I've been wondering the same thing. I think they stay in but I look forward to seeing the answer

MarilynB said...

Claire, usually these stitches are meant to remain in the garment, that is why you only pick up a thread of the fashion fabric, which is also what is done with pad stitching in the collar and lapel. If you are referring to the photo with the chest shield, those stitches remain in the garment to hold the shield permanently in place but need only be attached to the interfacing underneath. Also, those zigzag stitches in the front are holding the interfacing to the vertical seam allowance and the chest shield along the roll line and they both remain. The remainder of the chest shield is held in place in the shoulder and armhole seam allowances. I hope this clarifies everything.

MarilynB said...

Opps, I was referring to pictures 19 and 20. In picture 4 stitches on the outside of the jacket usually come out once all the seams are sewn and the jacket is hemmed. The stitches along the armhole would come out after the sleeve is attached since the seam would be holding everything in place. The reason for the diagonal basting stitches is to keep everything (i.e, underlining & interfacing) stable and in place during construction.

Melissa Fehr Trade said...

I've got the body of my coat all sewn together but I was waiting on some instruction before underlining it before doing that step. Or maybe I should just do it?

The vintage diagram looks like you cut the underlining without s.a. and then hand stitch it to the s.a. of the fashion fabric, is that right? And I know I don't underline the sleeves, but what about where my coat crosses over itself for the double breast? It seems a bit unnecessary there if the wool is two layers already.

My sewing room is going to be demolished (and rebuilt) at some point around October, so I've got a bit of a deadline to work to or I'll be wearing last year's coat again this winter!

MarilynB said...

Melissa, what diagram are you referring to? The only one I recently see is the one in Marji's post of 9/7 which refers to interfacing, not underlining.

If you do plan to underline your coat, you need to baste it to the coat fabric before you attach the interfacing, sew any darts, or make any pockets. If you plan to interline it (for reasons of warmth) then you can add that later.

Melissa Fehr Trade said...

argh. I meant interlining, sorry. I've been away from this blog for too long and I'd forgotten which terminology we're using for which technique. Mine's the one for warmth, not stability.

The diagram was from The Complete Guide to Sewing by Constance Talbot, but I didn't take note of which post it was in since I've got my own copy of the book.