Could you give us more information on this please? On your blog (Marji) you state "attaching wigan at hemline - stitched to side seams and hand stitched with running stitch along fold line. Still needs to be pressed to fit shape of hem."
I can see that you cut it to match each pattern section and that it is sewn to each piece before the side seams are joined. It looks like you have left about 5/8" below the hem line and the bulk of the wigan above the hem line. Is this correct? Does the running stitch come out later? How is it pressed to fit the shape of the hem? It looks as if there is a lot of wigan above the hemline.
As I'm sure you can tell, I've never used wigan before so any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
***Edited to add: I really should Google first. Found it here
Response From Marji
Susan, that's a great resource link you found.
As far as the wigan I'm using, and what went out in the packages that I sent, it is the lighter weight 3" wide wigan that Kathleen talked about.
Kathleen is a professional coat maker, so I'm sure her information is more correct than mine. I do it the way I was taught back in the 80's by a European tailor, so my photos may look a tad different than hers.
- I use a 3" wide wigan for a 2" hem, and attach the wigan over the fold line so that it is included in the folded hemline.
- I cut the wigan to the lengths needed at the hemline of each body piece. I then use chalk to mark a line 1/2" over the edge, and stitch that to the hemline. In this case I hand stitched it, right along the fold line using stitches that do not go through to the right side, and those stitches will stay in.
- I then stitch the wigan into the side seam
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