Sunday, August 24, 2008

KayY: MUCH less boring!

I have made progress with my coat - er - my muslin.

Here again is the Vintage Vogue Christian Dior pattern I'm using


After I graded the pattern, which if you recall is described as "high - fitted", I made up a muslin out of hideous curtain fabric - it's slightly shiny and stripey which shows off the bias cut. Despite the flaws of the fabric, the coat looks pretty good. The only problem is that it is so fitted (quite nicely I think) through the shoulders and arms that there would be no way to actually wear it over anything.

Round two saw me add to the width in these critical areas. I extended the shoulder point and side seam at the lower armscye out 1cm each. I also lowered the armscye by 1cm. This gives me a total of 4cm more width just below the arms, blended into the original side seams around waist level.

I also made the sleeves wider to match the new armscye.



The only fitting change I made was to curve the CB seam in more at the waist/hip level as it was quite baggy.

Finally, I decided the coat needs to be 4cm longer to cover most of the skirts/dresses I would wear it with. I kept the original hem circumference.

Here are the pictures of my first muslin (tight jacket fit)























And here is the shorter & bigger muslin, worn with a jacket underneath.



















I had better get going now. I have to finish the rest of the pattern pieces and cut this out. I have decided to use a mostly windproof underlining and kasha lining. I have hair canvas on hand, and I will decide about whether to use the lambswool I bought once I have the shell constructed and can get a sense of the heft of the coat.

Kay

5 comments:

fabricluver (Susan) said...

Kay - that looks great! You certainly have the fit down pat and it's so nice that you can wear a jacket/sweater underneath. I really like that pattern.

I injured my back and have not even cut my muslin apart yet. Right now there is no way I can bend over my cutting table (dining room table) and cut the coat out. But I'm much better so hopefully next weekend I can get going again on this.

fabricluver (Susan) said...

Kay - that looks great! You certainly have the fit down pat and it's so nice that you can wear a jacket/sweater underneath. I really like that pattern.

I injured my back and have not even cut my muslin apart yet. Right now there is no way I can bend over my cutting table (dining room table) and cut the coat out. But I'm much better so hopefully next weekend I can get going again on this.

Jenny said...

Wow, your muslin looks wonderful! I like the separate piece of fabric for the buttons. If you wanted to be all flashy, a striped coat would be fun in this pattern!

Digs said...

Why Kay, you look fahbuloos in satin chevrons: sort of a couture take on construction detour via zebra crossing!!! Seriously though, it looks genuinely terrific. I'm very taken with the shoulder yokes - such a cute detail, it's almost a pity the collar will be covering most of it.

My own coats are still USO's: unstarted objects. Summer fun got in the way of slaving over a hot sewing machine...

Claire S. said...

Kay, I like this pattern - the separate piece for the buttons is a great detail and it looks good on you in the shorter length (I think I'm partial to jackets this year, everything catching my eye is short !)

I wish I could snap my fingers and have my muslin finished but since that is not to be, I'm plugging away at it. I WILL have a coat for this winter :-)