KayY: Boring, Boring, Boring

I made a muslin of my coat, for which I'd chosen a BWOF pattern:


I used some medium-beefy corduroy for the muslin which does a decent job of being a coat muslin. However the lines I dutifully sewed in to mark CF and waist etc. are lost. I have drawn in a black line at the marked waist in this picture of the front.

























The sizing for this coat starts at 38 (12) whereas I'd usually choose a 36 (10) in WOF sizing - I went ahead based on earlier reports that this coat had little ease, and the fact that the pattern ease on the 38 measured OK according to Marji's guidelines. I am wearing it overtop a jacket (which also has shoulderpads) and I think it is a size too big in the shoulders but more so in the back. I think the bust and hips are OK but the waist/shoulders/upper back are just sloppy.

Things to note about the picture:

- I didn't pin to secure the leading edge of the left front, and it is sagging a bit, which I think is causing those wrinkles in the upper left front (leading to the pin)
- the lower front edge was curling under a bit
- the picture is a little off the vertical (I'm not that crooked)
- the shoulders are too wide, as is the back from the shoulders down to the hip
- the sleeves are too long (they are folded up at the hem line in this picture, and need an inch or so less)

More pictures are here.

Overall, this pattern is just not grabbing me, even a little bit. Less so when I think about my chosen stash fabric.

Sooo my friend Gail (who also thought the muslin was kind of meh) brought over a couple of Vintage Vogue coat patterns from her extensive collection for my consideration. Interestingly, both have inset pieces of the same kind as the BWOF pattern.

Here they are:

















I am kind of leaning to the Christian Dior, except will have to pay careful attention to the fit as it's noted to be "high-fitted", which I assume means a close fit, and is a size (ahem) 8.

Edited later the same day ...

I am so going to make the Dior pattern! I opened it up and it's cut on the bias, which is just fascinating to me somehow. My wool has a noticeable straight-grain weave, so the bias should look really good (the inset front band is cut on the straight grain, as are the sleeves).

I started a crash course in grading (Threads issue 101) and will cut a muslin tomorrow. NOW I can get excited about making a coat!