Edited 7/26/08 to add:
Thank you, Digs, for noticing the forward tilt of the sideseam. This has been a persistent problem for me. I finally added a 3/4 " wedge of fabric at the bust line. This has brought the side seam back in line. Hooray!
7/20/08:
Here is the redrafted muslin, looking more like Marfy F1022!
I used the instructions in chapter 8 of Modern Pattern Design by Harriet Pepin (142)
- Add width to each panel according to Pepin's instructions on P. 19 of chapter 8
- Start the break 3" below bust line in front, side and back
- Draft the pleats to be 1" deep at the top and almost 3" deep at the hem, throwing the pleat on the bias
- Change the grain on the side front and side back pieces, so the grain line runs down the center of the panel (drawn on this muslin, but cut according to the old grain line)
- Reduce sleeve cap ease by 3/8". There is now 1 and 3/8" ease in the sleeve cap.
I'm still wondering if it tilts up too much in the front. I think there is enough room in the back:
I also tested the sleeve tab as shown in Burda 9/2006 #101. I don't like it. See how the sleeve is twisted on the model's arms? Makes ya wonder. . . . I will probably do a long sleeve vent instead, or a diagonal cuff in velvet (same as collar), as in the bottom picture:
3 comments:
Mary, I've been hoping someone with more experience gives you some feedback, but as no one has, and I know how nice it is to get it, here goes.
Your new version has a really beautiful shape to it. I really like the change you made, and your photos with the vertical & horizontal lines drawn in. It appears that the side seam is still pushing forward a bit. To counteract that, I'd add another 1' to the front, somewhere between bust & waist, pinching to zero at the side seam. That should push the side seam backwards, and simultaneously let the front hang a little flatter. You may have to raise the hem to counteract the drop, as it's not clear from the photos if it's level with respect to the back (seems so from L side, not quite so from R side).
Digs, thanks so much. I could see on the picture that the bust line was not level. I added 3/4 inch on the fronts and tapered to nothing at the side seam. Magic! the side seams hang much better. I will get someone to take photos for me tomorrow.
I really appreciate your comment!
I think your muslin looks great. I love how the pleats lay on the the back lower section.
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