Marji - my own projects

I'm hoping to get 3 garments made in the process of hosting this The Great Coat Sewalong.
I'd started to muslin the vintage pattern Vogue 1356 when I had occasion to flip through my whole collection of Patrones and Burda WOF looking for something else, and came across this.

I set everything aside for awhile and I evaluated muslins, worked on other projects and went on vacation. And, I searched for buttons - there are a lot of buttons on this coat. I found one locally that I loved, but it's a long discontinued button and doesnt' exist anywhere anymore.
I still need to trace this pattern, and make a muslin to see if it'll even work on me. And, I need to make a decision about buttons. This is where I am so far. The two on the right are my top choices at the moment.
Input gladly accepted.


Meanwhile I had to begin working on a project for this TGCSA. The other two projects I had in mind when I started this group are short jackets. My need for coats is seriously dwarfed by my love for coats, and my existing collection. Whereas I will get significantly more wear from short jackets. It just doesn't get cold enough here, long enough, to warrant a lot of coat wearing.
The jacket I chose to work on first is a double breasted tailored number by Guy Larouche from Vogue. And of course, it's just gone OOP, although it is still available on their website.



I altered my pattern per my usual alterations for Vogue, and cut my typical 1" seam allowances, and constructed the muslin.
I wonder how many people have made this pattern as is?


Look at the shape of the side front on the pattern tissue, and then look at my revised piece after alterations in the muslin. (the muslin pattern piece is under the pattern tissue). The front actually pleated along that princess line there was so much fabric and flare drafted into the original pattern.
There is that much flare built into the back too, however, since I would normally have had to make a sway back adj - which I didn't do since I was making a muslin and I wanted to see how much I would need in actuality rather than arbitrarily making the alteration on the tissue - and I would normally make a bit of allowance for my protruding backside, I didn't have to do much to the back. The flare built in by Vogue took care of that particular fitting issue for me.
The interesting thing is, this isn't supposed to be a flared jacket.

Other than that though, I added a bit more in the bustline at the princess seam, and added additional length to my CF panel, and the pattern fit ok.

For this jacket I'm using the double face cashmere/wool blend coating from Gorgeous Fabrics.
For the lining, I rifled through my rather prodigious stash and came up with the perfect use for a piece of Vietnamese Silk I have been hanging onto for the last 4 years trying to come up with a suitable use for it. These are very interesting jacquard woven silks, being a cottage industry in Vietnam, and being woven on some very old looms that some villagers have pulled out of storage. The woven width is less than 36". Somewhat recently I thought I saw some for sale at Waechters.

The colors are perfect both for the coating wool I'm using and for the wool that I'm planning a pair of pants from to wear with it. The pant wool has been in my stash since ... the days of cavemen? Since the 80's anyway.

The color of the jacket matches perfectly one of the colors in the plaid of the pant, and will be great together. (ignore the yarn).

Ignore also the fact that I've cut the lining out already. I'm trying to work ahead a bit to get some installments written in advance of when they're expected to be up. ;)