Before I cut out my muslin I made my usual alterations to the pattern: forward shoulder, erect back, narrow shoulder and an fba of about 1.1/2" for a total of 3" in the bust. I also added walking ease according to Roberta Carr's instructions. I cut a 14 in the upper body and a 20 in the hips. I cut a 16 in the sleeves and took out about an inch of ease in the sleeve cap because, one there was over 2" to ease. Too much and especially too much for my heavy double sided wool coating. I also shortened the sleeve by an additional 1" They look to be the correct length. The hems are cut off, but not the cf sas.
The armscyes are too tight. I am wearing a t shirt with a sweater over it, about what I would wear in the winter. I sewed it lower and trimmed underarm after these pictures but I think that the problem is that I need to add to the upper sleeve not to lower the armscye further. Before I added the sleeves it felt fine. The underarm was not too high so it seems to be the sleeve ease. I also need to let out all the vertical seams and give myself a bit more ease under the bust to the hip. This pattern does not call for shoulder pads and it seems ok. I have to add the very large collar and lapels yet, but it would have obscured the upper body!
Monday, June 30, 2008
NancyK: Vogue 8306 muslin
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
2 comments:
Nancy,
I just left a long comment and then reread your entry. That is what I get for waiting a week between reading and responding. I agree that you need to let it out a little bit more. I am surprised that the coat doesn't call for shoulder pads. It is probably because of the collar design. Nevertheless, I would insert a very thin one anyway. Don't you think that the coat will need that given it's length and the weight of the final fabric? Probably between shoulder pads and the collar one could end up looking like a linebacker! I just think that something has to be inserted to support that shoulder area. Others with more experience than I have will chime in here I am sure. and when they do, I'll be taking notes. ;)
You will have to alter the sleeve to fit a shoulder pad in. But it is too tight anyway, so this works out for you. My sleeve was too tight for my taste too. I have to remeasure mine and see. I believe it has the right amount of ease, which means I have the wrong amount of arm...sigh....
I would really love to see this with the collar on. I love that collar and want to see it made up in something other than an illustration.
One other thing - Is your muslin the same weight as your fabric and lining together? I can see through it, so I wanted to point that out. You can use this just make it a little bit looser than your think to compensate for the fabric differences. You know this already, so I don't know why I even need to bother to say it. Just think of it as a reminder just in case you have those moments like I do.
I'm looking forward to the next set of photos. HTH
Post a Comment