tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post7028877808255878744..comments2023-11-08T16:48:42.971-06:00Comments on The Great Coat Sew-Along: Analyzing and Altering The Fitting MuslinMarjihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08695305834402487163noreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-32165089271504996022008-06-19T08:53:00.000-05:002008-06-19T08:53:00.000-05:00KayY, Thank you for the clarification on exactly w...KayY, Thank you for the clarification on exactly where that bib front ends in relation to the waistline marking. It's still long on both of these coats, but it does help to know that, and it's bourne out in the drawing I did across the markings and bib on Melissa's coat. <BR/>Melissa, since we're going to be thread tracing seam lines and the hem line, you can go ahead and cut your muslin at your desired finished length, and we'll add hem allowance when laying out and cutting. In any case, for a straight coat like this, Lisette is right, you can add your length at the hemline.<BR/>Lisette, before you adjust the back neck, you need to try it on and actually check where that seamline is in relation to the join of your neck and your spine. The alteration, if you need to make one, is the opposite of the alteration for dowagers hump.<BR/>So you'll need help, because you need a precise measurement on how high it is. <BR/>On curved seams where a corresponding piece will be added, in this case a collar, I like to use slash-and-spread or tuck methods to alter, so that you don't change the curve of the seamline (neck edge) at all.<BR/>See <A HREF="http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00169.asp" REL="nofollow">this at Threads</A> for an explanation of altering for "dowagers hump" aka high round neck.Marjihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08695305834402487163noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-70899547715151567292008-06-19T07:03:00.000-05:002008-06-19T07:03:00.000-05:00Marji, you said I might need to lower the back nec...Marji, you said I might need to lower the back neckline. I have been looking at my fitting books to address this but I am a bit confused. What kind of alteration do I need?Lisette Mhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13332082021185663844noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-2420908533602027572008-06-18T18:36:00.000-05:002008-06-18T18:36:00.000-05:00I haven't made up my muslin yet but did trace the ...I haven't made up my muslin yet but did trace the same pattern, and the waist is marked about 1cm above the bottom seam line on the bib piece. I just checked the CB length and it is about 2.5cm (1") longer than my measurement, so maybe it is drafted too long. I had already noticed a lack of ease in the hip in proportion to the bust, but not in the sleeve. I'm so lucky you are analyzing the fit of my pattern!KayYhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09965798068172494708noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-2886500256992663022008-06-18T18:31:00.000-05:002008-06-18T18:31:00.000-05:00This is fantastic!!Thank you Marji! Melissa: When ...This is fantastic!!Thank you Marji! <BR/><BR/>Melissa: When I was tracing this pattern I noticed that below the hipline the seams on this coat are pretty straight, I would think you could just add at the hemline. Marji correct me if I'm wrong...Lisette Mhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13332082021185663844noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-38423037956942194462008-06-18T16:33:00.000-05:002008-06-18T16:33:00.000-05:00ohmygosh, Marji, thank you SO much! This is exactl...ohmygosh, Marji, thank you SO much! This is exactly why I've signed up for this sew along! I'd never, ever been able to distinguish all of these fitting issues, let alone correctly diagnose them. It looks like I've got some work to do this weekend... :)<BR/><BR/>One question, though - if I want the overall length of the coat to stay the same, where should I add in the length I'm losing from raising the waist up to where my actual waist is?<BR/><BR/>And thanks for the tip, Nancy, I'll have a look at the bib after the alterations and see if the buttons look too close together afterwards. They're on order so they should hopefully arrive in time for the second fitting with any luck.Melissa Fehr Tradehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14734428215982288386noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-1814606114737375132008-06-18T15:23:00.000-05:002008-06-18T15:23:00.000-05:00Nope, sorry NancyK, but I have to disagree here.Th...Nope, sorry NancyK, but I have to disagree here.<BR/>The model in the Burda photo has a bib that ends at her natural waist - take a good look at the enlarged photo essays above - it is significantly higher than both the muslins shown here - and all 4 sets of buttons fit.<BR/>Also, if you go back to Melissa's original post you can see her markings on her muslin where the pattern indicates the waistline should be. It's in line with the bottom of the bib, and is lower by quite a bit than real person waistlines.Marjihttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08695305834402487163noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1728513409643104140.post-12446575456148627712008-06-18T14:42:00.000-05:002008-06-18T14:42:00.000-05:00If they are both going to shorten the bib front, t...If they are both going to shorten the bib front, they may need to reduce one set of buttons as well. I agree that this is drafted for a very tall woman with a proportionally longer waist. Where does the marked waist on the pattern fall?Nancy Khttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02235347323004026695noreply@blogger.com